My HSV Clubsport

[HSV-Paul]

Yes, you need to fit a new one.

I've ordered one so have every intention of putting one in, unless I'm advised it looks OK and to leave it. I know you like to do everything to spec but not everyone runs that way. I doub't it very much, but it could've been swapped 2 or 3 years ago. Looks like it's doing its job from where I'm standing...

 

[Skylarking]

Seals will fail over time and heat cycles. The rubber/plastic goes hard and then they can’t do their job well as they can’t keep the oil where it’s supposed to be resulting in leaks.

Checking how pliable a seal is is reasonably easy. You can lightly push on the seal itself using rounded bit of wood and compare to a new seal. Just keep in mind that an installed seal will feel much stiffer than on sitting on a bench. If it isn't pliable, I’d replace it because of the effort required to get to that seal at a later date.

But if it ain’t hard and still comparable to a new seal, I’d often just decide to leave it alone. Why, because the question that’s always on my mind is whether a new part will fail early due to stuff being made poorly these days (and supply chains are a bit pooch screwed these days so one can’t be certain where and at what quality stuff is made)

Basically I try and live with the rule don’t fix what ain’t broken

 

[losh1971]

There was a fairly major oil leak before the trans came out. Maybe it was all from the input shaft seal, maybe it was both the RM and input shaft leaking, either way is it worth the risk? Also unless GM changed suppliers a gen seal plate should be as good as the one installed at the factory.

 

[HSV-Paul]

Seals will fail over time and heat cycles. The rubber/plastic goes hard and then they can’t do their job well as they can’t keep the oil where it’s supposed to be resulting in leaks.

Checking how pliable a seal is is reasonably easy. You can lightly push on the seal itself using rounded bit of wood and compare to a new seal. Just keep in mind that an installed seal will feel much stiffer than on sitting on a bench. If it isn't pliable, I’d replace it because of the effort required to get to that seal at a later date.

But if it ain’t hard and still comparable to a new seal, I’d often just decide to leave it alone. Why, because the question that’s always on my mind is whether a new part will fail early due to stuff being made poorly these days (and supply chains are a bit pooch screwed these days so one can’t be certain where and at what quality stuff is made)

Basically I try and live with the rule don’t fix what ain’t broken

You know I could prob get a zoomed in video of me prodding the seal lol, but I know what you're saying. Have dealt with seals on motorbike engines and follow what you're saying.

Just skimmed through 2 vids of changing the seal and both used existing plate. Had the help of the alignment tool but yeah used existing plate. Even see one clip of the guy prise it out with a screwdriver because "it has that bit to do so"...

 

[HSV-Paul]

There was a fairly major oil leak before the trans came out. Maybe it was all from the input shaft seal, maybe it was both the RM and input shaft leaking, either way is it worth the risk? Also unless GM changed suppliers a gen seal plate should be as good as the one installed at the factory.

I've since seen oil higher up so dunno where it's coming from tbh. Would like to sort it now tho...

 

[losh1971]

It's one of the most common places to leak. IMHO changing the plate is a no brainer.

 

[HSV-Paul]

It's one of the most common places to leak. IMHO changing the plate is a no brainer.

Can you please explain why the plate and not just the seal?

 

[losh1971]

Can you please explain why the plate and not just the seal?

The plates are known to warp over time. Replacing just the seal runs the risk of coolant leaks down the track.

 

[HSV-Paul]

The plates are known to warp over time. Replacing just the seal runs the risk of coolant leaks down the track.

Ok fair enough.

Gonna send my seal back as have just ordered this, will sort out any leaks...

 

[chrisp]

Can you please explain why the plate and not just the seal?

That’s a great question.

If you follow the strict instructions, you need to need to align the rear cover plate using an alignment tool - then install the seal.

If you simply pull the seal (without removing the plate) and install a new one, you don’t (probably?) don’t need to worry about the alignment unless it has somehow become misaligned. But this doesn’t replace the plate-to-block seal.

If you buy a new plate with the seal already installed, I’m not sure how you do the alignment? Maybe it’s just eyeballed?