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No resistor, VE has a controller. Might want a second opinion or just swap it out with second hand one, still pretty cheap. Or test the blower motor, all simple stuff in a VE. Will take long to pop glovebox out that either of those two jobs.

Start checking the big fuses, and battery clamps/covers.

Cap off run the motor till thermo opens, do you get a whirlpool in the hole? Or bubbles...

Factory radiator cap....? I have had zero luck with aftermarket.

https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/removing-rear-view-mirror.192224/post-3061816 i followed this thread.

They just clip on the back of the radiator. One plug with four wires. Remove airbox or otr. It couldn't be easier.

They have a spring loaded clip. Really gentle with loads of force with the right screwdriver in the slot. I replaced mine with an auto dimming model, even with ambo tint it works fine.

Got it on a battery tender? Mine speeds the clock up.

Bottom right hand of the pic you posted. Model ssv and up from memory

I have the projector version and they are pretty good, I don't use the car often at night as the window tint is a tad dark to reverse without dropping the front windows and using the camera for distance. I fitted the high beam version as well, used the car new years eve, fantastic throw, without...

Use engineering mode and watch voltage. Charge battery, check alternator.

V8 has steam port and different res tank feed. Water temp is also speed and feed.

Grab the heat shield and muffler mount as well.

Check and allow for alternator, radiator and cap, water pump and fluids (inc P/S and brake) plugs/leads,belts, battery and starter, check rotors and pads, Plastic seat trims, and all external window trims. Run the A/C check both radiator fans run and don't vibrate and internal vents also...

I try to use mine once a week take the longest way to supermarket and make sure thermostat opens, AC gets a run and it lives on a battery tender via a smart switch.

Qld's straight roads easy under 9-10l/100 in the manual SS The company 3.0 auto was under 7l/100, Brisbane to Bundy and back. Absolutely zero fun at any time. No tickets either.

Read stored codes, charge the battery. Check obvious things like oil level. Manual check of fuel prime and pressure. The LS is a very simple beast. The ECU may shutdown the fuel pump if flagged from sensor feedback, could be anything. I know I'm not helping but you need to start simple and...

Take it to a suspension mob, get a quote. That's your shopping list if capable. Could be strut tops combined with worn bushes. Unless someone gets under it, it's all guesswork.

I use The narva led sure fit. When off road And https://www.blingworkauto.com.au/konik-h7-flash-white-4750k-white-halogen-bulbs

One of the best things i did was new super pro arms, both sway bars, links and the blood I left in the front end. I had done the struts, spring and top mounts previously. Just thinking a Ute with tight sways might not be flash. But if you carry 6 -8 bags of rapid set at all times, it could...

Could be Sensor going bad, loom/plug going bad, thermostat jammed open and not getting to 75deg in 20 odd min.

Cough

Keep the new battery on a maintenance charger while you are dicking around. You might be leaving boot, doors, radio etc on and the new battery maybe low.

Lost a linkage? What does the ECU see when you change gear? That trans has a dipstick from memory, what's the fluid level? Got reverse? Nobody flogged the tailshaft?

What's the voltage when cranking?

Have to check with a V6 bloke, but pretty sure at that temp both fans should run, I would hit the ac button and that should run both fans at rest. At that point check power to fans . Could be a dead relay or fan

Switch clips in/out

I think I paid $65 from repco, after paying 49 for the caravan ones... So.. lets not add those two numbers together. $68 club price right now.

I tried the caravan ramps and still had issues with front lip, aeroflow ramps were on special somewhere, much better.

I am keeping the set if I remove the vf ssv rims Did you spot the manual surround? Sorry to tease...

For the seat trim, These clip in, the new version from holden has metal reinforcement.

You may have a stuffed actuator. Stock head unit? Gotta do the reset. As above,

No dust covers and a vote for sl rear ssl front with 20's But it will catch normal speed bumps Prob rubbish top mounts for that money

Probably just enough volts to run. Test the battery and alternator. Then earth points.

Start simple. Volts. Battery and alternator. Earth points. Battery clamps. You have many issues, so it's probably one fairly generic one.

I have 3.7 manual, you guys have spoiled my enjoyment of the car. I drove it this morning and watched the rpm of takeoff and what gears I actually use. I was talked down from the 4.11 to keep the cars road manners. So second vote for 3.7-3.9

Or a crap earth that it being used as the reference. As above, bit more fault funding before I would buy, recode and tune a ECU.

Front of heads at the top, 10mm bolt. Crack em. Fluid will flow. Close em

I always crack the steam ports and then pull suction on that pipe to the radiator. I don't trust them to bleed without help.

I fitted https://www.blingworkauto.com.au/philips-p21w-ba15s-s25-x-treme-ultinon-6000k-led-b but I found a set on Amazon for less. very very good, after trying ebay and getting garbage.