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I have a WM V6 statesman - so low in the front that there is minimal suspension travel and I have to crawl over speed humps etc I bought it from my brother-in-law so I know the suspension is original (not country pack.) I have been told that the base model ute rode 30mm higher in the front...

Is your overflow bottle up past the full mark? My experience is that sometimes air can be sucked into the system when it is cooling down, next time the engine heats up coolant is expelled to the radiator overflow tank which eventually overflows. This is mostly a radiator cap issue (Buy genuine...

Holden changed their recommendation from 10,000Kms 15,000 Kms. (In order to compete with some european brands.} Then when you go in with a problem they tell you that the fine print says "under ideal conditions" or similar words. (That is non stop long distance highway driving.) I am told that...

I used a 7mm socket but all the bolts were too tight and the socket slipped. Then used a ring spanner with the same result. Ended up using two nuts and tightening against each other and successfully removed the top bolt and front lower bolt but couldn't budge the lower rear bolt. However, if you...

I know this is a very old post but has anyone had any success trying this on a VE?

How long since the oil filter was changed? Does it have the correct grade oil?

Check the plastic connector for the temp sensor. They become brittle (and can crack) as a result of the proximity to the exhaust manifold.

What about the air shocks from a caprice?

Normally measured from the highest part of the wheel arch to the bottom of the rim (not tyre). (Don't know any numbers though.)

I can't answer your question but for anyone who has had a sensor come loose or get bumped such that is partially inside the bumper, the answer is to use a vacuum cleaner to suck it back into the correct position. (It's a hell of a lot easier than removing the bumper.cover.)

As per "krusing"'s photo it is behind and below the oil filter housing. Nearly impossible to see. Before you replace the sender check the plastic connector as they become very brittle due to their proximity to the exhaust manifold. My vehicle showed a coolant sender fault but it was the...

As stated above, this is the best flush possible. (At least you have removed old ATF from the lines and radiator.) The only way to ensure ALL the old fluid is removed is to do as "greenacc" suggests and do another complete change of fluid by removing the sump again (and dumping 5-7 litres of...

If you drain from the quick connect first you won't have an overfull sump to remove from the vehicle. Removal of the sump is necessary whichever method you choose. After replacing the new filter and sump (and fluid) you can then complete the best flush that is possible (with the transmission in...

I'm using Valvoline Synthetic. The dipstick (2010 3.6 Dual fuel) is marked "Dex VI"

OK, so I have now completed the job and would happily do it again now I know the ins and outs. If anyone wants to do a flush I suggest the following: Remove the splash shield under the radiator - 4 x 13mm bolts, 2 plastic clips at each inner guard and about 6 small bolts into the bottom of the...

I can now answer my own question - the supply from the transmission is the one on the drivers side. (I took the car for a 3 km run to get the ATF to 50 degrees, (the hotter hose at the radiator turned out to be the return line??.) Obviously the coolant was heating the ATF. I got a touch over 4...

I am going to flush 2010 VE V6 4 speed tonight. Can someone please tell me if the ATF supply line from the transmission to the radiator goes to the passenger side or the drivers side of the radiator. It will save me disconnecting the wrong one and potentially spraying ATF on my wife's precious...

Before anyone else does a thermostat look for signs of coolant leak immediately above the water pump pulley. Where the coolant inlet (where you top up coolant) bolts to the motor there are two seals. If they are leaking coolant can run down the valley and leak down both sides of the bellhousing...

Cam Phasers also require oil pressure. (Search Justcommodores for "noisy VE at startup video") But unless it has been serviced better than every 7,500km it probably was about to need chains anyway.

I have a related question. How do you remove that plastic "seatbelt guide" in the top of the seatback? Suggestions gratefully accepted.

There are also 2 Torx screws to be removed on the wagon, One is where the cargo blind clips in. The other is near the front beside the top of the rear seat uprights.

Thanks VE_Wagon11. You are a gem!! I had searched Mr Google (and Just Commodores) with no luck. I figured it must have to be done from above (after checking below), but for the life of me I couldn't see a slot for a screw driver (still can't see it but it works with a thin flat blade...

Spilt oil over load-area carpets. I will be grateful if anyone can tell me how to remove the tie downs