Flush 4 speed auto

[Horacehighroller]

OK, so I have now completed the job and would happily do it again now I know the ins and outs.

If anyone wants to do a flush I suggest the following:
Remove the splash shield under the radiator - 4 x 13mm bolts, 2 plastic clips at each inner guard and about 6 small bolts into the bottom of the bumper (This car only had 2.)
Warm trans to 50 or 60 degrees (no hotter or you will end up burning yourself.)
Remove the air intake between the filter box and inlet manifold.
Insert a container under the two ATF pipes but above the crossmember just behind the radiator ( I used an aluminium foil baking tray because you can crush it to get it in and then restore it's shape to catch the couple of tablespoons of ATF which will leak out. When everything is completed you can crunch it up with the spilt ATF to remove it from the engine bay)
Place a rag or crumpled newspaper in this tray and various rags around the site so when the clip springs away in the next step you don't have to spend half an hour searching for it.
Disconnect the "quick connect" fitting nearest to the bottom pulley (the return line to the transmission.)
(See youtube for help to understand how to do this. I just used a very small flat blade screwdriver in the slot - and then had to find the clip.)
Feed a tube (I used 19mm black garden water system tube) up from below the radiator and insert the flexible rubber hose. Place a 5 litre (minimum) container below to catch what will soon come out.
Have a helper start the engine in neutral (you need to replace the air intake pipe or the engine will only run for a second or so) and run at idle until the fluid starts to spurt - I got about 4 litres.
Carefully drop the transmission sump ( mine wasn't difficult to lower by hand without spilling because 4 litres had already been removed as above.)( I used a very small flat blade screwdriver to collapse the collar seal of the old filter, and a socket to press in the new one.)
Once you have replaced the filter and cleaned and replaced the sump add 5 litres of ATF via the dipstick tube.
Get a new collection container to replace the one under the radiator (preferably clear - I used a 2 litre cordial bottle).
Again have your helper idle the engine until new fresh ATF appears.
The system is now flushed as best it can be so reconnect the quick connect fitting. (You can't push the spring clip on like you would a normal circlip. You have to put one end in place and then stretch the other end over until it clips in. I used a couple of strands of copper wire to pull the clip using pointy nose pliers. Once it's in place it's easy to pull out the fine copper. Don't forget to slide the plastic ring back over the clip, - if it won't slide over easily the clip may not be fully in place.) Watch the procedure on youtube before attempting.
At this stage there was nothing showing on the dipstick ( it is hard to see fresh fluid , where as the old black stuff was easy).
Top up in small amounts and keep on checking - I got over zealous and then had to drain some out - PITA.

If doing this again I would purchase clips from Repco or Bursons in advance as I "lost" the clip removing it and replacing it.

Good luck

 

[Horacehighroller]

Not sure which one it is. I don't like playing with those quick connectors so I service mine by pulling the pan off. That way I can also change the filter. What fluid are you using? Be careful using low viscosity fluid in the 4 speed.

I'm using Valvoline Synthetic. The dipstick (2010 3.6 Dual fuel) is marked "Dex VI"

 

[VFSV6FORME]

I use much the same as you. A small tool of some sort and a hammer to fold the shell inward so I can grab it with pliers and yank it out. I suspect if you do regular services it would not really be necessary to replace the seal every time... Maybe every second instead.

All I scared about is if you use a Joe blow filter and you change the filter to Ryco and they have a different internal diameter or different in any way you could be stuffed so you must change everything.

 

[greenacc]

That's not going to happen. All the filters on the Australian aftermarket are identical!! The cheap brands and the expensive one's all sell the same part made in the same factory!! So I suggest buying the cheapest one you can find which is usually Transgold at Supercheap. I've tried 3 brands and had a close look at the plastic filter and they're all exactly the same.

 

[Anthony121]

Why are people draining trans using the coller pipes? Wouldn't you just drop the pan?

 

[Horacehighroller]

Why are people draining trans using the coller pipes? Wouldn't you just drop the pan?

If you drain from the quick connect first you won't have an overfull sump to remove from the vehicle.
Removal of the sump is necessary whichever method you choose.
After replacing the new filter and sump (and fluid) you can then complete the best flush that is possible (with the transmission in the vehicle).

 

[Anthony121]

If you drain from the quick connect first you won't have an overfull sump to remove from the vehicle.
Removal of the sump is necessary whichever method you choose.
After replacing the new filter and sump (and fluid) you can then complete the best flush that is possible (with the transmission in the vehicle).

But there is still fluid in the torque converter.

 

[greenacc]

But there is still fluid in the torque converter.

Yes, so the best way would be to follow the procedure to empty the sump and replace the filter then go for a drive to flush the new fluid through the torque converter then drain and fill the sump again.

 

[Horacehighroller]

But there is still fluid in the torque converter.

As stated above, this is the best flush possible.
(At least you have removed old ATF from the lines and radiator.)

The only way to ensure ALL the old fluid is removed is to do as "greenacc" suggests and do another complete change of fluid by removing the sump again (and dumping 5-7 litres of new (expensive) Dex VI.

I am more than happy with what I have done as the resultant fluid is difficult to see on the dipstick because it is so clear.

 

[Anthony121]

Yes, so the best way would be to follow the procedure to empty the sump and replace the filter then go for a drive to flush the new fluid through the torque converter then drain and fill the sump again.

Thats probably why they do 3 flushes when they change a different type of fluid at work.