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Don't spend the money on half-assing an install - you're only going to end up spending more later. Work out a maximum budget that you're willing to spend all up (include things like wiring and installation) and work from that. First up, do your front sound stage. There's no reason why you should...

For Stinger/Kicker kits, you're looking at $200 plus, so you did alright there.

If you're getting a double DIN, I'd check out the new range of Pioneer screens - the new AVIC without the internal HD is a ridiculously nice piece of gear and quite functional.

Could just be an earthing point in your dash cluster wearing out. If you're keen, pop the whole cluster out and have a look around.

o_0 The immobiliser should have at least one immobilisation point, which would mean with the control module removed, the car DEFINITELY shouldn't start :eek:

It sounds more like the contacts were welding together, but it seems weird that when you added another one the problem stopped (relays will have the same current through them as it's a series circuit).

You can get some awesome LED's from eBay, the ones I get are half the price, twice as bright and better quality than the ones from Autobarn/Jaycar, etc.

You've hit the illumination wire, finding the correct fuse will fix it.

An easier way is cutting compound on a buffing wheel, metal polishes work well too. If you have neither, you can use toothpaste - it also has the benefit of leaving your headlights smelling minty fresh :)

If you want to do it properly, you'll need a decent set of spanners, sockers and a big screwdriver, plus some sort of welder. Most exhausts I've seen attached by U clamps have had leaks, no matter how tight the clamps are. Always use a gasket, even if it's just the original one with a good...

It is. Drawing 10A at 14V doesn't mean it's going to be a 140WRMS amp.

Chemiweld is pretty good stuff, but it's no total fix.

The 5 WIDE spoke chrome rims that have chrome inserts in the gaps, so all you basically have is a totally chrome rim with a small empty line. I hate them so incredibly much.

At least you weren't up against a lightly worked JSX80 - you would have had absolutely no chance whatsoever. A bit more boost, extra fuel, 'zaust and a bit of weight reduction and we're talking 12 second passes with barely any effort. Drag times aren't everything IMO, driveabillity and comfort...

Make sure your towing weights are under the specified maxes on your ute. I've seen cars who's doors no longer line up from towing a load greater than they had specified ;)

Best an easiest? How is running two wires (which creates a fire hazard, mind you) from the cabin out to the engine bay easier than finding accessories, ground and an illumination wire under the dash? :whistling

If it's dependant on car speed rather than engine revs, then I'd be looking away from the engine. I know when I had a ****ed bottom end, the knock only got worse when my revs were up, totally independant on speed.

The change in sound generally comes from moving the position of the cat/s around - a longer length of post-cat exhaust will resonate lower than a short piece of the same diameter.

There are pieces of tube you can buy that will separate if there's any vacuum in the intake tract prior to the throttlebody (such as you sucking up a heap of water or getting something big caught).

$1.30 for premium this morning at Sumner Park, so pleased I didn't full up yesterday :D

I've got two SC14's here, one has a broken bearing housing so is only good for spares. The working one has just been reconditioned and is in excellent nick, looking for $450 for both of them + postage.