Overdriven S14 Supercharger CRS Kit Experience

I have the crs kit for my VS V6 and jus wanna add my bit, i originaly had it standard and while it got the wheels smokin it felt a bit flat midrange a lot of the time and also had loud bassy pulsing sound when crusing in low revs due to the supercharger interfering with the airflow sensor not that it bothered me much but jus sounded different. Since then i have had a smaller pulley put on it which now blows between 8-9psi constant, proven by dyno chart. But the whole setup needs to be changed, the biggest thing that needs changed is the throttle body position, it needs to be rellocated to the front side of the blower and lose the plastic shitty bov that was on it. The bov is nolonger needed as the throttle body will now limit how much air can be sucked into the engine and since the blower is constantly blowing boost the bov would melt... also this much improves the airflow readings as the air sensor is still in front of the throttle. You will also need to fabricate a new inlet pipe to the plennum and add a rising fuel pres reg and resistor. My car now produces 744.7 ft/lb of torque and 241 RWHP, 305 HP at the fly at 4500 rpm 110mph and all that is using the stock standard computer, the car does not run lean at all and actually has a very good mix the whole way thru. If i added bigger injectors and fuel pump i could get it chipped and tuned prob squeez out a whole lot more but i'd more than likely need head work done to cope.
The characteristics of acceleration are totally different now, befor the SC would feel very strong from putting ur foot down an inch on the peddle but not give much more when flooring it. Now it sounds and drives almost like a stok V8 when your jus crusing around cant really hear the SC but when you floor it BOOM boost hits 8psi straight away and the car accelerates HARDDDDDD and the whizz is loud! nuthin like what it did sound like. From stand still it will smoke the tires silly all way thru 1st and into 2nd (bear in mind i have an abused lazy 4 speed auto with 245 18ich chromies 8inch wide) your going about 70kmbefor it grips which is great if you luv to drift!!!!
reving it at idle it hits red line almost instantly without even fully flooring it none of this VRRRRRRMMMMMMMM-Redline.
I can show dyno charts to anybody who is interested, they show the befor and after pulley work and the fuel mixes, boost readings and Power.
The blower tends to rattle a bit on idle but apparently is normal when their overdriven as soon as theres load on it it goes away.

So thats my experience with the CRS S14 Kit For the V6 Ecotec, to anybody who says their underpowered for the 3.8, a constant 8-9 psi in the plennum from go with full throttle is 8-9psi in the plennum regardless what its come from??????? So i dont understand how people think their underpowered.
The Whole Kit and extra pulley and mods cost me about $2500, most other SC start at that price with out any kits or engine mods So to me its the only way worth going for the standard ecotec otherwise ur better of going out and buying a VZ Fctory Super Charged Engine for $5500 and slapping a smaller pulley on that instead??

Anyway hope that clears some stuff up, and hope u liked my novel. Next thing to do is change the ol auto for a tremac manual.

P.S. Anyone in QLD looking to get their SC overdriven Contact WIDOWMAKER RACE ENGINES In Caloundra they have much experience with these and offer a complete package and a great to deal with

My other mods are
Pacemaker extractors thru to a straight thru 3" Cat back exchaust
Cold Air Setup but using K&N Pod not air box
9mm Ignition Leads NGK Sparkies
Rebuilt Auto with stage 2 shift kit (but was done awhile ago)
Standard VS Ute LSD
Koni Adjustable Shocks With Super Super Low King Springs
Nolathane Front and Rear Strut Braces
Whiteline Panhard Rod
Nolathane rubbers all way round
18" Enkei Gzero Mags
Bendix Ultimate Pads
Brigestone rubbers
VX Clubsport Fabtech BodyKit
Group A Bonnet Lift

Stereo is a 1.2ghz Via Epia M21200 Mini ITX Mother Board with 40gig hdd 512mg ram running Media Engine 2.0 with sat nav, mp3, vid, psx, microtuning. all running off a 7" lilliput touch screen and Opus 90watt power sup.
2X Boss 400watt amps
1X Boss 500watt amp
Pioneer 250w Comp front speakers
12" Sony Sub
Panasonic 150w rear speakers

Very cool, sounds like the ultimate budget way to S/C a commodore. do you know if these kits will run on a Buick at that much boost, because this could make it very interesting

Anyway man, greta work with you ride. Also got to love the carpc's very cool idea

ALSO! post up some pics of the engine bay and the dyno sheet.... please

Supa

Not too sure bout the buick motor with that much boost, you should call Widowmaker Race Engines in Caloundra QLD they have heaps of exp with these setups, and are the ones who dyno'd my car. I had a mate that tried running 10psi into a standard VN it run ok until he took it to the drag strip where it spun a bearing and wasn too pretty, but prob more due to oil pressure prob???
Yeah Carpc's the only way to go, you wouldn believe how cheap you can build them (compared to stereos that might do half the stuff this does) and Media Engine is unbelievable for a car the whole thing is 15cm by 15cm and bout 5cm high and has had the **** banged outta it and still works fine.
As with pics no problem will go out and snap some pics of engine bay tommorow, dyno charts i can take a photo of but dont have a scanner so not sure how well it will come out, will see if i can get em scanned somewhere.

Will Get Engine and Dyno pics up soon

Have to agree, the carpc's are incredibly cheap when you look at the prices of a decent head unit, dvd player, etc. like you said its been banged up a bit but the HDD is still ok... thats cool.

those lilliput screens are really good also, how much did you pick yours up for?

Here Are The Engine Picz

I picked the screen up for $370

Hey

The throtle body is at the front of the blower?, whats the reason behind that

also thanks for the photos

vinnywelsh said:

Hey

The throtle body is at the front of the blower?, whats the reason behind that

also thanks for the photos

Click to expand...

To eliminate the bov and prevent blow back from no bov and to stop the butterfly bending the throttle body now limits the SC from sucking air when at idle cause the smaller pulley has no clutch and is constantly blowing boost, if you use the standard bov for 1 it will melt and 2 sounds like ****, it would be constantly venting unless you fully floor it and sounds like an aircompressor realeasing air (loud) when driving normal.
Also having the throttle body at the front gives a much better airflow reading when crusing cause the air passing thru the sensor is the same as whats getting into the engine. With the tb in normal location more air is passing thru the sensor than whats making it into the engine due to the bov venting and the throttle body being mostly closed, the car runs rich, my rear bumper would be constantly black from blowing black puffs from overfueling, similar to hard tuned imports when they floor it.
Hope this makes sense.
P.S. Sorry i havent posted the dyno charts yet, i need to get em scanned in, the photos i took you cant see anything.

Ahh thats why the TB is at the front. pretty good idea

also im in no great rush to see the charts , post em up when you have the chance.

thanks