Brembo kit is on the fronts, and just finished bedding them in.
Cliff notes on brake installation/front wheel bearings:
DONT lose the wheel lock nut key. I had to destroy the lock nuts because I misplaced the lock nut key. But got them off after an hour of swearing (bashing a socket on them did not work so had to get much more violent..... Stupid me.)
The old calipers come off easiest by taking the two 12mm hex bolts off the back of the caliper slide pins and removing the upper caliper body, leaving the old pads and lower caliper still on the rotor. Then remove the lower caliper by cracking the two 19mm caliper mount bolts (they were not too bad)
Make sure you remove both slide pins on the new calipers (or existing ones) and re-grease BOTH the slide pins and check the rubber dust boots on the slide pins.
Anti-squeal grease lightly on the backings of the new pads.
To tackle the wheel bearings:
Removing the brake rotor makes the job much easier. They can be stuck on, so prepare to bash the jesus out of them to free them, or if you're lucky like me, you may find threaded jacking holes in the rotor hub to push the rotors off easily like I did.
There are three bolts holding the front wheel bearings on, from the back side (facing away from the outside of the car). They take a 10mm allen key female head. They are tighter than all unholy god to crack them off because they are factory thread-locked and access to them is an absolute pain, especially the topmost bolt.
Two of the allen bolts on the back of the wheel bearing are not too bad to take out. Bit hard to fit a large breaker bar in there, but its doable.
BUT the topmost allen bolt on the wheel bearing is obscured by one of the large bolts that clamps the lower strut. The bolt head is in close proximity and wont let you get to the last allen bolt on the back of the wheel bearing. You must remove this large strut clamping bolt (undo the nut on one side and tap it out with a drift) to then gain useful access to the allen bolt on the back of the wheel bearing and finally crack it loose.
Once the three allen bolts are out, the old wheel bearing itself is a tight interference fit. I tapped it out with a hammer and it came loose without too much of a fight (compared to the three allen bolts holding it in...)
Reinstallation is pretty basic and obvious.
Bedding the new pads & rotors in, I miraculously found a 10km stretch of road (at 5pm- peak hour believe it or not) that was straight and deserted. I made 12 panic stops from around 80kmh to 20kmh (never stopping completely, so the pads would not 'imprint' in one spot and make a heat spot on the rotor) until I could smell brakes and knew they were good and hot (my Brembo street pads say operating temps are from cold to 650C so I wanted/hoped to get them up to the 550C mark or thereabouts). I then continued to cruise for another 10 minutes at 100kmh to let the brakes cool back down. Upon stopping for a drink somewhere, I checked the brakes. They had worn in very uniform around the rotor, and on the outer 3mm edge of the rotor, I observed a consistent, light heat-blue ring right around the rotor, which tells me they got up to hot temps and they got worked hard enough to hopefully get a uniform pad material transfer all around the disc evenly (you want this).
There is no squealing or noises, the car will pull up in a straight line from 100kmh with me just lightly touching the wheel, to make sure it isn't pulling to one side at all. It tracks dead straight in a panic stop and it stops a great deal harder than it did with standard brakes. I'm very very happy and impressed.
For anyone who wants to do further research, David Zeckhausen has a really good write up & video on proper brake bed-in techniques here:
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
Just waiting on the rear rotors and rear wheel bearings to arrive from overseas, as I went with bigger, ventilated discs for the rears (standard is useless old solid non-vented rotors).
By the time this thing is done, it should be upgraded in a lot of ways over a standard WH, but it shouldn't advertise itself very much.
Also, while I was in there, I found that the car does not have the standard struts in it. Seems like the original owner has put these 'Monroe GT Sport' struts in the front end. I didn't know they were in there.
