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05 VZ Overheating

VE10

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Hey guys,

My VZ exec has recently started overheating, it normally runs between 1/2 and 3/4 on the gauge depending on weather but the last few days its been almost been hitting the red sometimes it will drop down if i put the boot down but not always. would this be a thermostat issue?

Its never hit high enough for an alarm to go off and the fans continue to run after i turn the car off for a bit.

If it is the thermostat ive heard it can be a nightmare to do but ive been quoted $700 for it to be done, so im thinking of doing diy it.

cheers.
 

Fu Manchu

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VE10

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Yer going to bleed it today, looking back on my post history I had similar problems a few years ago.
 

VE10

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I should write out all I've checked.

Heater works
A/C works
No coolant smells
Coolant level seems fine.
Top hose HOT
Bottom hose COLD
Overflow hose fine
Opened the rad cap this morning and started it up, I could see flow but no whirlpool.

Don't know how to check coolant temp sensor.

I made a mistake in my last post, car normally runs 1/4 to 1/2 on gauge but has been going just over 3/4 sometimes drops down.

I havnt got a bleed kit so will have to make do with bleed valve on rad.
 

krusing

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so will have to make do with bleed valve on rad.
And that's the easiest way to do it.
But before you attempt a mission impossible.

If you can, get it pressure tested, (If you local to me, I would do it for you)
I replaced the Radiator a little while ago, as I had a similar thing happen, the Radiator was leaking at the back on the bottom, and has hidden from view,
but I could smell coolant,
So I removed the cooling fans and seen what looked like a leak, but pressure tested and sure enough,
the core had cracked at the base on the back, not sure how old the radiator was, but it looked old,
Replaced the radiator and it appeared ok.

But it started to leak at the next weakest point,
Return pipe on the thermostat housing [O-ring], so I fixed that,
Then its started to leak at the heater hoses [2 x O-rings] that bolt on tothe thermostat housing,
that's where it became a BIGGER mission,
I created a mission to replace them, but ended up removing the the thermostat & housing,
And did it all from the top.
[I did a write up of it, for others to read]

The best way to see where approximately where the coolant is leaking from, put some RED Coolant in it,
Then it will leave a trail as it runs down from the leaking point.
That's how I found its was leaking at the thermostat housing in both locations.
 

Fu Manchu

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I should write out all I've checked.

Heater works
A/C works
No coolant smells
Coolant level seems fine.
Top hose HOT
Bottom hose COLD
Overflow hose fine
Opened the rad cap this morning and started it up, I could see flow but no whirlpool.

Don't know how to check coolant temp sensor.

I made a mistake in my last post, car normally runs 1/4 to 1/2 on gauge but has been going just over 3/4 sometimes drops down.

I havnt got a bleed kit so will have to make do with bleed valve on rad.
The bleed valve just helps with filling the radiator itself. It is in no way suitable for bleeding air from the system. There can be 1-2ltrs of air trapped in the system after using the bleed screw on the radiator. That in itself will cause cooling issues. Your gauge should consistently sit a smidge over ¼.

Get a bleed kit. $20-30.

Or do what I have also shown in the thread I linked and make your own. I’ve included the parts required and where to find them. Until that is done, you won’t be likely to resolve the issue.
 

VE10

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It was a quick solution that didn't work. Bleed it today at work the quick way, drove home sane problem although it's not going as high as before.

So yer i either need to get a kit or ask my mechanic to bleed the system.

I'm guessing the $20-30 kits are from ebay or Amazon? The ones I've seen at sca or repco are like $90+
 

Fu Manchu

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Yes, eBay.

They are identical to the Repco etc ones.
 
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