20" Mags Cracking on my VF

[RevNev]

Hmmm - Tempe Tyres.
They seem to be always the cheapest place to buy tyres as well, but I'm not sure if they are imported through the "kosher" channels.

We've bought about 8 sets Simmons FRC's (5 spoke) distributed by Tempe and the last 2 sets didn't have a round wheel in the set, all had a wobble and seemed the quality had deteriorated from the earlier sets we bought initially in 2017.

 

[Pollushon]

I've never heard anything good about PDW. Cracks seem to be a common feature

We've bought about 8 sets Simmons FRC's (5 spoke) distributed by Tempe and the last 2 sets didn't have a round wheel in the set, all had a wobble and seemed the quality had deteriorated from the earlier sets we bought initially in 2017.

Simmons have had issues with fakes over the last few years, some even getting the logo's down pat. When I got my FR1's they came with a authentication QR to verify they were genuine. They are some quality wheels to the last detail

 

[figjam]

At the moment, $1500 is kinda my top end of what I'm able to spend,

Have a look at what is being advertised for OEM rims, save a bit more, and buy genuine.

 

[Forg]

Tempe import through the right channels.....

This is why they never have the LHS tyres!

Simmons have had issues with fakes over the last few years, some even getting the logo's down pat. When I got my FR1's they came with a authentication QR to verify they were genuine. They are some quality wheels to the last detail

I must admit, I don’t see any evidence of them being of a lower quality than the OG ones I’ve got.
Australian wheels were better suited to Australian crappy roads than the super light high-end stuff from Italy & Germany & Japan back then, fancy new $4k set of Tein wheels & then pot-hole & then oh carp they’re cracked. However, that did mean Australian wheels were a little heavier, and more so if a 3-piece wheel with a steel rim.
Whether that’s still the case with the Tempe Chinesium Simmons, I dunno.

 

[vc commodore]

Back when larger rims were starting to come out on factory cars, ie 17" and larger, I was constantly seeing the inner lip cracked, very much like the OP's rims....I also saw the inner edge buckled

It was being put down as lack of support on the inner edge, combined with no support in the sidewall of the tyre, so when you hit a pothole, the rim would take the shock and crack/buckle....

 

[Forg]

Back when larger rims were starting to come out on factory cars, ie 17" and larger, I was constantly seeing the inner lip cracked, very much like the OP's rims....I also saw the inner edge buckled

It was being put down as lack of support on the inner edge, combined with no support in the sidewall of the tyre, so when you hit a pothole, the rim would take the shock and crack/buckle....

Did you (and do you still) see the failure of the mid-priced Australian wheels (Speedy, CSA), as well as most factory wheels, to be buckling; as compared to expensive imported super light wheels being cracking?

That’s my recollection of How It Was, but whether that’s still the case, no idea. According to what I was reading, the alloys in the lighter wheels were more brittle and the alloys in the heavier factory wheels tended to be more malleable.

 

[vc commodore]

Did you (and do you still) see the failure of the mid-priced Australian wheels (Speedy, CSA), as well as most factory wheels, to be buckling; as compared to expensive imported super light wheels being cracking?

That’s my recollection of How It Was, but whether that’s still the case, no idea. According to what I was reading, the alloys in the lighter wheels were more brittle and the alloys in the heavier factory wheels tended to be more malleable.

In the early days, they all had the issues...The main one was buckling....It was the occasional one that was cracked, even with factory ones...These days, things have improved.....Still see the cracking and buckling, but not as often as I used to...

 

[Forg]

In the early days, they all had the issues...The main one was buckling....It was the occasional one that was cracked, even with factory ones...These days, things have improved.....Still see the cracking and buckling, but not as often as I used to...

A mate from school had a Lancia Beta sedan which he’d had resprayed when we were at uni in the early 90’s, the factory coupe alloys really suited the sedan’s hatchback bodyshape, so a bunch of us bought him a set for his 21st. I went through about 30 wheels in 3 Italian-specialist wreckers in order to find 4 straight ones! As you say no cracks, just buckles, and all to the point you could see the clown-car effect rolling them along the ground …

 

[PeteSS]

From what I’ve been told by industry insiders, aftermarket wheels don’t have to meet the same stringent standards as OEM wheels supplied to vehicle manufacturers specs must meet. The end result is that like for like construction and looks, factory wheels are always stronger than aftermarket wheels and that’s no5 even considering issues of counterfeit rims…
Google to the rescue

The taller the tyres aspect ration the less the rim suffers on our pothole riden roads. But have 20” rims with 35 to 45 aspect ratio tyres and you need a real strong rim… no hiding that fact…

Funny that they test Merc wheels, as their OEM wheels are notorious for cracking. To the point that their has been a class action case in the US over it. Merc wipe their hand of it, and blame the owners

My wife's C43 has copped a couple of cracks in its wheels. From driving over potholes you would barely feel.
At $1700 a wheel, it's not a cheap fix.

 

[Skylarking]

You could always go old school and get 18x8 Forgestar F14 rims and tyres to suit as done on the Chevy SS in the link below If you like the old school look that is…

https://www.customwheeloffset.com/w...ss-forgestar-f14-drag-eibach-lowering-springs

At least there should be less worries about cracked rims with such a setup and they clear Brembos Doubt it would be cheap @ ~$350USD per rim + import and shipping costs