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2015 VF SV6 - Shaking intermittently at idle.

Discussion in 'VF Holden Commodore (2013 - 2017)' started by MossNZ, Feb 22, 2017.

  1. MossNZ

    MossNZ New Member

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    Noticed the car feels like it's jerking to one side when it's sitting idle in gear (at the lights), and in park. It's not constant, but varies. The car was serviced before I took collection of it, and has done 35,560 to the clock.

    I'm new to Holden's, did some searching and saw older cars doing it but threads cut short. It drives fine in every other regard.

    Sorry for lack of knowledge.
     
  2. 426Cuda

    426Cuda SUBLIME!

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    Sounds normal. Even goven the baby standard cam. I've read Holden programs this into the tune to give a V8 idle feel. Can't confirm this but.
    Mine does this too and I like it.
     
  3. MossNZ

    MossNZ New Member

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    Oh, so no cause for concern? Just read (few seconds ago) it might be the A/C, but if it's intentional then I'm super happy.

    Will upgrade to a V8 one day.
     
  4. 426Cuda

    426Cuda SUBLIME!

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    Whoops, scrap that sorry mate. I thought it was a V8. Should've read the title!
    Not sure. Could be any number of things irrespective if it's a 6 or 8. Spark issue, e.g plug, lead, coil; fuelling issue eg injector; compression e.g head gasket, or nothing at all. I'm no expert and even if I was, diagnosis via this thread would be difficult at best. More likely, just wrong.
    Probs best to have it looked at if you're concerned.
     
  5. crew_man

    crew_man Active Member

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    I'm pretty sure that it's normal. It happens to my VFII SV6 which was bought brand new and has 9000km's on it.

    I have seen a number of threads pop up asking the same question and from all accounts it seems that it happens to all SV6's
     
  6. diysv6

    diysv6 Member

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    Sorry for the epistle, but it may be helpful.

    From experience with my VZ SV6, I found the idle stability was poor when the EVAP solenoid was activated by the ECU. Especially when cold started. The EVAP did not necessarily activate as soon as the engine was started, but started chattering about half a minute after engine start. In colder climates it may start even later?

    Normally, the EVAP chatters (closed/open/closed cycles) and using inlet manifold vacuum, pulls pulses of air through the fuel system's carbon canister into the inlet manifold. The air from the canister can be loaded with fuel vapour eg, hot day fuel vapour pressure expansion from the fuel tank, excessive raw fuel after the fuel tank has been overfilled. This extra fuel will richen the fuel air ratio and consequently the O2 sensors will try to correct. I think the chattering of the valve stops a "full on" change to the air fuel mixture, as the inlet manifold chamber will mix or "blend" air drawn through the throttle plate and the EVAP and the crankcase ventilation (CV) metering. The EVAP cycles timing may be such that the O2 sensors don't/cannot chase the A/F mixture changes diligently, and start making large compensatory changes to ignition timing and fuel injection on/off times etc. I think the O2 sensors respond in a more subdued manner and idle speed quality reflects this condition.

    Find the line to the EVAP near the inlet manifold, if it can be safely crimped to stop air flow, then evaluate your idle smoothness. In the VZ, it was solid vacuum lines, so I removed the quick connect fittings at the EVAP, and used rubber chair tips, 8mm or 10mm in diameter from memory, to block the air to the inlet manifold. My VZ idle improved to be very steady and the motor did not have any shakes etc. Reconnected the EVAP and idle was not as good.

    My VF SV6 S1 cold idle feels a bit unstable but when up to operating temperature the idle is acceptable. When cold started, I put it down to the O2 sensors not being in the loop and the EVAP having a chatter as well. So, unless it gets bad at operating temperature, I presently have to accept the designers' compromises between engine performance and pollution controls.

    If bad when hot, then the usual items come into play. Plugs, injectors, ECU, EVAP leaking, vacuum leaks, CV blockages, fuel pump, wiring, earthing, faults etc. etc. Some of these faulty components don't give fault codes.

    Hope you can solve your problem.
     
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  7. MossNZ

    MossNZ New Member

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    Thank you for the detailed explanation of what it could be. Temperatures have been anywhere from 15 - 25 degrees outside when I've started the car and it doesn't feel like much difference between the alternating temps. It's not annoying me, just more concerned. However this qualms any worries I had, there's no affect on actual driveability.
     
  8. treesnake

    treesnake Member

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    yeah its like an occasional miss fire, mine does that occasionally when sitting at traffic lights. Not too bothered, although the lumpy throttle the first 30 secs after cold start up is a bit annoying
     
  9. zero_tolerance

    zero_tolerance Donating Member

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    Out of curiosity, what fuel are you using?
    My old VE 3.6 sidi was silky smooth and could be barely felt at idle, but then I noticed it suddenly started to have a noticeable lumpy idle.
    I put it down to BP Ultimate and the new additives they started using, because once I switched back to regular 91 it instantly became smooth again.
     

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