202 Leaking Exhaust Gasket help

[bozza91]

I have a red 202 in my vb, and there is a leak at the exhaust manifold. The previous owner squeezed 2 gaskets in to seal a earlier leak but now after replacing the old gaskets with one new one there is still a leak at the back. Would it be possible the headers have warped and now won't seal properly? What could I do/use to seal the leak?

 

[VK SL 3800]

Being a red motor it probably still has a stud right at the back instead of a bolt, you could try and pull the stud out and put in a bolt so there is some clamping force which might help. Your probably right and your headers may have warped, if they leak right after replacing the gasket they need to be machined.

 

[Drewie]

I had to pull the extractors off our Blue 202 a while back to fit a new starter motor, I bought a new exhaust manifold gasket from the local exhaust place and he suggested I should use some high temp exhaust silicon on either side of the new gasket, I bought a tube a sort of a red coloured stuff and smeared it on both sides,
was a bit messy, but it has sealed up beutifully not a sign of leak anywhere, maybe some of that stuff on the gasket might help.

 

[TY318]

I had to pull the extractors off our Blue 202 a while back to fit a new starter motor, I bought a new exhaust manifold gasket from the local exhaust place and he suggested I should use some high temp exhaust silicon on either side of the new gasket, I bought a tube a sort of a red coloured stuff and smeared it on both sides,
was a bit messy, but it has sealed up beutifully not a sign of leak anywhere, maybe some of that stuff on the gasket might help.

u shouldnt have needed to pull the headers off i got my startor motor in and out with the headers on it was a f**king c**t tight space but i got it

 

[vkberlina]

I suggest you pull the manifold & headers off the engine and put a straight endge to them and see whats actually warped, replace as required. Prior to fitting parts back ontot he head clean it up with a scotchbrite and wax & grease remover and make sure no grease or oil are present, the gaskets are usually fibre/alloy composite gasket or complete alloy which will mould to the surfaces under pressure & heat. Correctly torque the manifolds, so you get the manifolds to seat correctly esp if you have had problems tighten up firm just past finger tight, give a wiggle of the manifolds and slowly torque up in 5nm increments. Check the manufacturers requirements on the gaskets to give a better seal it may be recommended to heat up to opperating temp then to let cool and retorque studs and bolts.

scott

 

[machone]

like he said ^...

 

[ari666]

take em' off.
layer on 4mm of rtv high temp silicone
wait 24 hours
layer on another 4mm
fit headers
wait 3 hours
drive you new 'exhaust leak free' car
profit

 

[Drewie]

u shouldnt have needed to pull the headers off i got my startor motor in and out with the headers on it was a f**king c**t tight space but i got it

What ever brand of extractors that are on our VC they run extremely close to the original big bodied starter, I undid the starter and there was next to no movement, lucky to have been 1 cm, as soon as you tried to move the starter back it hit the extractors there was no way it would have come out with the extractors on, maybe some brands have a little more clearance than others. The new starter is a lot smaller and looks like it would slip out quite easily if needed. But going back to the original question the new gasket and the high temp exhaust silicon sealed ours up beutifully, I checked the bolts a few days later and nipped them up again as well.

 

[whats up]

I have a red 202 in my vb, and there is a leak at the exhaust manifold. The previous owner squeezed 2 gaskets in to seal a earlier leak but now after replacing the old gaskets with one new one there is still a leak at the back. Would it be possible the headers have warped and now won't seal properly? What could I do/use to seal the leak?

On my engine the alloy surface of the inlet manifold where the square washers go were worn/crushed right down and any tightening down of the nuts just didn't work therefore creating a air/vacuum leak.