N
nothappyjan
Guest
Hey Folks,
The wife has a VR Acclaim (1994) with a very noise drivers side front wheel bearing for the last 8 months. Being on annual leave and having nothing better to do, I'm trying to fix it. After inspection, I found the whole hub needs to be replaced rather than just the bearing - which is annoying, but so be it. After the ring around, I found that even aftermarket outlets have outrageous prices for new ones, probably cause there are only genuine ones available.
Next, I rang around some wreckers and found one in Melbourne with a second hand ABS hub for around $100. After putting it in with my VERY enthusiastic 10 year old son, we took it for a test drive. Reversing out of the driveway appeared promising. But upon applying the brakes driving forward we found a pulsating noise for the next few brake pumps followed by the ABS OFF light appearing on the dash. After the light came on, the brake pulsations were gone. I assumed the ABS had switched off and the brakes were now operating as non ABS brakes. We confirmed this by appying enough brake force to skid the front wheels. After stopping the car and restarting, the ABS light was off but the same thing happened as before.
Luckily, being an electronics engineer, I have a digital oscilloscope with which I can measure and see voltage waveforms. I measured the pulse output of the old hub rotor. It's probably a reluctor which is a magnet and coil. Every time a magnet runs past the coil, a voltage is produced. The signal was a well shaped sine wave.
We took off the second hand rotor and also measured it's waveform. The speed at which I turned the rotors was approximately the same but I found that the frequencies were VERY different (around twice). Just to make sure the signal was actually getting through, I tested the rotor output at the connection under the bonnet, just near the ABS actuator unit (after re-installing the second hand unit). It was fine. A quick test drive confirmed the problem still exists.
Finally, here are my questions:
- Are there ABS hub rotors with varying pulses per revolution?
- Is the second hand rotor I purchased for another vehicle?
- Am I supposed to change both front hub rotors using a fequency matched pair?
- Is there an adjustment in the control unit to match the frequencies?
- Is it possible to disassemble the old hub rotor and swap the reluctor? I've managed to remove the large bolt from the old hub using a modified socket and 1m long steel tube.
I now have an old hub rotor with a crook bearing/ good reluctor and a second hand rotor with good bearing /incompatible reluctor.
Therefore please help. The Missus is getting edgie (for want of better wording) and my annual leave is dwindling quickly.
nothappyjan.
The wife has a VR Acclaim (1994) with a very noise drivers side front wheel bearing for the last 8 months. Being on annual leave and having nothing better to do, I'm trying to fix it. After inspection, I found the whole hub needs to be replaced rather than just the bearing - which is annoying, but so be it. After the ring around, I found that even aftermarket outlets have outrageous prices for new ones, probably cause there are only genuine ones available.
Next, I rang around some wreckers and found one in Melbourne with a second hand ABS hub for around $100. After putting it in with my VERY enthusiastic 10 year old son, we took it for a test drive. Reversing out of the driveway appeared promising. But upon applying the brakes driving forward we found a pulsating noise for the next few brake pumps followed by the ABS OFF light appearing on the dash. After the light came on, the brake pulsations were gone. I assumed the ABS had switched off and the brakes were now operating as non ABS brakes. We confirmed this by appying enough brake force to skid the front wheels. After stopping the car and restarting, the ABS light was off but the same thing happened as before.
Luckily, being an electronics engineer, I have a digital oscilloscope with which I can measure and see voltage waveforms. I measured the pulse output of the old hub rotor. It's probably a reluctor which is a magnet and coil. Every time a magnet runs past the coil, a voltage is produced. The signal was a well shaped sine wave.
We took off the second hand rotor and also measured it's waveform. The speed at which I turned the rotors was approximately the same but I found that the frequencies were VERY different (around twice). Just to make sure the signal was actually getting through, I tested the rotor output at the connection under the bonnet, just near the ABS actuator unit (after re-installing the second hand unit). It was fine. A quick test drive confirmed the problem still exists.
Finally, here are my questions:
- Are there ABS hub rotors with varying pulses per revolution?
- Is the second hand rotor I purchased for another vehicle?
- Am I supposed to change both front hub rotors using a fequency matched pair?
- Is there an adjustment in the control unit to match the frequencies?
- Is it possible to disassemble the old hub rotor and swap the reluctor? I've managed to remove the large bolt from the old hub using a modified socket and 1m long steel tube.
I now have an old hub rotor with a crook bearing/ good reluctor and a second hand rotor with good bearing /incompatible reluctor.
Therefore please help. The Missus is getting edgie (for want of better wording) and my annual leave is dwindling quickly.
nothappyjan.