Advice Turboing RB30.

[Samj2121]

Hi there, looking for advice I've checked out several threads but want to get some specific advice.
I have a manual 88VL Commodore, I want to turbo not to standard spec but somewhere in the mid 300hp range.
I've talked to some local mechanics/friends here in NZ who recommended checking out some of these forums then ordering all the needed parts from Australia.

What would you guys recommend I need to make 300-400hp e.g best injectors/turbo size etc? I'm guessing stock block/cam etc can handle way more than im looking at doing anyway.

All advice much appreciated thanks!

 

[harrop.senator]

Ive gone through this 3 times in the past month with new members that then never come back.

Budget , fuel type , rpm and what have you already got?

 

[harrop.senator]

You'll be starting to reach the reliability of a 35 year old probably 200k motor by running mid 3's atw through it but its doable.

 

[Samj2121]

Thanks for your time i'll stick around! Budget around 10k, Fuel in area I live mostsly 95/96 but can get 98 octane. I have nothing yet!

 

[harrop.senator]

Alright hybrid performance have one too mount left for rb30 and is steam pipe. They still need facing and the old wastegate position wasn't the greatest. Unsure how the new one goes with spike.

Kelway and 6 boost are the go. Rex kelway is cheaper and they're made to order.

Do a compression test wet and dry. If the rings are good get the head done. They're renowned for head gasket issues and corrosion damage from people not running coolant over the years.

Buy some performance brand drop in springs and get the cam reground to the old Wade 818b specs it's a great street cam.

Run an MLS head gasket and some studs.

Or throw a 25 head on it. Isn't that hard honestly and will out flow the single cam even with a good bump stick.

Check the bores for wear , overhaul or replace the oil pump and change the bottom end bearings. If the rings are sealing good , leave them. I've never pulled an rb30 down that wasn't ovaled and needed boring.

Don't go main studs as you'll need to tunnel hone, isn't cheap and with the girdle and stock rods and pistons your goals are fine. But the bearings will be worn and the boost will do a rod bearing.

Injectors you won't need over 660/750cc if staying on petrol and not going e85.

Turbo wise hx35 holset , kinugawa td06 25g or my prefered would be an s252 or s257 enhanced Borg Warner in a t4 twin pulse. It'll boost quickly and pull like a freight train.

Computer if can afford to go crank trigger and coil set up (extra $1200) I would. The factory cast is extremely unreliable . You can convert to a 33 chopper wheel in the original dissy. I can't remember how my mate did it and wasn't easy but after going through multiple of the Chinese Goss/fuelmiser replacements in two years he cracked it.

Nistune will do the job and there new units are very capable but I'd prefer a link, haltech or adaptronic. The adaptronic isn't as easy to tune and you're tuner needs to be confident in it. The computers extremely capable but not as easy as the others.

I'd go a cut and shut forward facing manifold for less pipe heat and it helps spool rather then the big crossover from the centre feed.

600x250x76 or 100 cooler will be sufficient and being 2" less in height should be hidden by the bumper and not have the wog spec hanging out the front.

 

[Samj2121]

Alright hybrid performance have one too mount left for rb30 and is steam pipe. They still need facing and the old wastegate position wasn't the greatest. Unsure how the new one goes with spike.

Kelway and 6 boost are the go. Rex kelway is cheaper and they're made to order.

Do a compression test wet and dry. If the rings are good get the head done. They're renowned for head gasket issues and corrosion damage from people not running coolant over the years.

Buy some performance brand drop in springs and get the cam reground to the old Wade 818b specs it's a great street cam.

Run an MLS head gasket and some studs.

Or throw a 25 head on it. Isn't that hard honestly and will out flow the single cam even with a good bump stick.

Check the bores for wear , overhaul or replace the oil pump and change the bottom end bearings. If the rings are sealing good , leave them. I've never pulled an rb30 down that wasn't ovaled and needed boring.

Don't go main studs as you'll need to tunnel hone, isn't cheap and with the girdle and stock rods and pistons your goals are fine. But the bearings will be worn and the boost will do a rod bearing.

Injectors you won't need over 660/750cc if staying on petrol and not going e85.

Turbo wise kinugawa hx35 holset , td06 25g or my prefered would be an s252 or s257 enhanced Borg Warner in a t4 twin pulse. It'll boost quickly and pull like a freight train.

Computer if can afford to go crank trigger and coil set up (extra $1200) I would. The factory cast is extremely unreliable . You can convert to a 33 chopper wheel in the original dissy. I can't remember how my mate did it and wasn't easy but after going through multiple of the Chinese Goss/fuelmiser replacements in two years he cracked it.

Nistune will do the job and there new units are very capable but I'd prefer a link, haltech or adaptronic. The adaptronic isn't as easy to tune and you're tuner needs to be confident in it. The computers extremely capable but not as easy as the others.

I'd go a cut and shut forward facing manifold for less pipe heat and it helps spool rather then the big crossover from the centre feed.

600x250x76 or 100 cooler will be sufficient and being 2" less in height should be hidden by the bumper and not have the wog spec hanging out the front.

Okay great thanks you very much for the in-depth reply I will now go ahead and research all of that and look at ordering in some parts I have spoken to someone who is cable of all of the post tuning also. All of this inside of 10k roughly?

 

[harrop.senator]

Turbo , manifold , external wastegate if needed , injectors and fuel pump you're looking at around 3.5 K.

Cheaper way is a hypergear hi flow turbo ($900 for what you want ,$1200 for room for more power later) on a stock cast manifold. But finding a stock vlt even needing rebuild and manifold are getting hard to come by and expensive.

Cut and shut plenums and a diy intercooler and piping kit is around $1000. $3-400 if you don't touch the plenum.

Bearings , valve springs , head studs , gaskets and an MLS head gasket is around $1000.

Reground cam and a cleaned up head is usually $5-900.

The dump pipe and exhaust if can't find a good used 3" set up will be an expensive part at $1000-1500.

A nistune is around a grand before tune with everything you want to run it. The others are closer to 2.5

 

[Samj2121]

Turbo , manifold , external wastegate if needed , injectors and fuel pump you're looking at around 3.5 K.

Cheaper way is a hypergear hi flow turbo ($900 for what you want ,$1200 for room for more power later) on a stock cast manifold. But finding a stock vlt even needing rebuild and manifold are getting hard to come by and expensive.

Cut and shut plenums and a diy intercooler and piping kit is around $1000. $3-400 if you don't touch the plenum.

Bearings , valve springs , head studs , gaskets and an MLS head gasket is around $1000.

Reground cam and a cleaned up head is usually $5-900.

The dump pipe and exhaust if can't find a good used 3" set up will be an expensive part at $1000-1500.

A nistune is around a grand before tune with everything you want to run it. The others are closer to 2.5

Great I'll get stuck into it thanks a lot for the help!

 

[harrop.senator]

Easy man if need any help with brands , where to buy definitely genuine stuff from of anything just chime back in.

 

[Samj2121]

Slowly starting to buy parts!