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Alloytec cooling system essues

greenacc

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You can check pressure by squeezing the top big radiator hose with fingers after a 15 minute or longer drive. If it's firm like a tennis ball it's got good pressure.
If it's soft like when it's cold there's a pressure leak and try a new cap.
Water pumps start at about $50 and are easy to change if you've ever worked on cars before or have a manual to follow.
 

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You can check pressure by squeezing the top big radiator hose with fingers after a 15 minute or longer drive. If it's firm like a tennis ball it's got good pressure.
If it's soft like when it's cold there's a pressure leak and try a new cap.
Water pumps start at about $50 and are easy to change if you've ever worked on cars before or have a manual to follow.
Will take care of those two and see how it goes
Thanks for the help
 

losh1971

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If you jump on eBay by a Gates or GMB pump the rest of the aftermarket gear is of questionable quality. Even GMB's are not as good as they used to be but are good most of the time. Definitely don't buy a Machter they are S***.....
 

Silverbird

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Some great advice here, but my pick would be simply to bleed the radiator from the screw and put on a new radiator cap. You might be pleasantly surprised. If not, then it's cost you very little. Noisy water pump will be functional for a short time so you should look to replace it regardless of whether it holds pressure.
 

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Thanks for the advises,
When you say "bleed the radiator", you mean to flush it?
 

losh1971

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Deleted misunderstood post.
 
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losh1971

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Thanks for the advises,
When you say "bleed the radiator", you mean to flush it?

If it is the same as a Buick you have a bleeder screw on the thermostat housing. Get the engine running and loosen the screw once you get no bubbles and just coolant spilling out it should be air free. Your mech should have done this already. You need the engine up to full temp as well.
 

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The thermostat is located behind the motor unfortunately, does someone can guide me how to bleed my VS rad?
 

losh1971

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Is there are a small brass screw and nut anywhere you can see. That is your bleeder if you have one.
 

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Got new genuine radiator cap and will bleed the system today, crossing finger for it to solve the problem.

Last question - do I need to wait for the car to reach work temp before opening bleeding screw? Or can i open it and wait for all the air to come out immediately after igniting the car?
 
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