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Alloytec Stalls Intermittently When Warm

Nick86

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I have WL statesman and sometimes on hot starts i start it up and then immediately stalls after, i then go to start it afterwards and have to give it a bit of throttle to start it and keep it there for a few seconds before it will idle on its own, very very rarely it does this on cold starts like maybe once or twice. But hot starts are more often usually if i do short trips and on the 4th or 5th time it happens. Other times when i do start it and the issue arises it sounds like its about to stall then manages to bring it self back up to idle revs and in and with the ac on sometimes it sounds like it surges and sometimes without it on as well. The revs drop briefly and then picks back up again whilst at idle. Would this be spark plugs or iac valve or maf sensors or something to do with the fuel pump? It has a new battery and nothing sounds erratic when it is cranking over to start.
 

Fu Manchu

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Take a look at your key.
Note how you are using it.

Why? Because as the key gets older it’s battery starts to go. Intermittent faults will occur where the car starts but the security cuts it off.

Also the little silver contact on the key head wears flatter and flatter and no longer makes good contact with the security ring around the ignition barrel.

You might notice (watch for it) when the fault happens, you’ll see the lock light on the cluster flash.

Try the start again and push down on the corner of the key with the little contact a bit harder and it starts. You might be doing that by chance.

Clean your throttle body and intake manifold. Remove it to do it properly. Replace the gaskets.

Take a look at the PCV mod. There’s a thread in the “how to” bit.

Get the fuel pressure tested.

Change the fuel filter. (No harm doing this anyway)

Clean the MAF with MAF sensor cleaner.

Is the air filter clean?

Do a scout of the harness connectors.
Make sure all is well. Undo them, clean them with contact cleaner.

Check the earth to engine points on the harness.

Check the battery terminals.

Make sure battery to earth points are ok.

Check for vacuum leaks.

Way down the line, it could be a crank angle sensor starting to play up with heat.

Rough idle can occur for a lot of reasons. Coolant sensor is one thing that can make a difference and if all the other things are done and it’s rough when cold, give it a go.

The VZ has the IAC as part of the internal electronics inside it. You can’t clean that stuff so easy.

Might be worth swapping a mates Throttle body over onto yours to give it a go and see if the fault still occurs.

You might have a faulty injector over fuelling. Do you happen to have your foot down when you try start again?
 

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Nick86

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Mar 11, 2019
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1995 Vs Commodore Berlina V6
Take a look at your key.
Note how you are using it.

Why? Because as the key gets older it’s battery starts to go. Intermittent faults will occur where the car starts but the security cuts it off.

Also the little silver contact on the key head wears flatter and flatter and no longer makes good contact with the security ring around the ignition barrel.

You might notice (watch for it) when the fault happens, you’ll see the lock light on the cluster flash.

Try the start again and push down on the corner of the key with the little contact a bit harder and it starts. You might be doing that by chance.

Clean your throttle body and intake manifold. Remove it to do it properly. Replace the gaskets.

Take a look at the PCV mod. There’s a thread in the “how to” bit.

Get the fuel pressure tested.

Change the fuel filter. (No harm doing this anyway)

Clean the MAF with MAF sensor cleaner.

Is the air filter clean?

Do a scout of the harness connectors.
Make sure all is well. Undo them, clean them with contact cleaner.

Check the earth to engine points on the harness.

Check the battery terminals.

Make sure battery to earth points are ok.

Check for vacuum leaks.

Way down the line, it could be a crank angle sensor starting to play up with heat.

Rough idle can occur for a lot of reasons. Coolant sensor is one thing that can make a difference and if all the other things are done and it’s rough when cold, give it a go.

The VZ has the IAC as part of the internal electronics inside it. You can’t clean that stuff so easy.

Might be worth swapping a mates Throttle body over onto yours to give it a go and see if the fault still occurs.

You might have a faulty injector over fuelling. Do you happen to have your foot down when you try start again?
Only sometimes whens it hot and like only once when its been a cold start even though it may only occur once every 2 weeks or not at all sometimes, its then when it wont start by just turning the key after it stalls is then where i have to put the foot down to try and start it.
 

Nick86

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Only sometimes whens it hot and like only once when its been a cold start even though it may only occur once every 2 weeks or not at all sometimes, its then when it wont start by just turning the key after it stalls is then where i have to put the foot down to try and start it which has worked all the time when the issue has arisen.
 

Fu Manchu

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Only sometimes whens it hot and like only once when its been a cold start even though it may only occur once every 2 weeks or not at all sometimes, its then when it wont start by just turning the key after it stalls is then where i have to put the foot down to try and start it.
When you put your foot flat to the floor and turn the ignition on it engages flood mode by the ECM. It will not activate the injectors for a specified period of time. This clears excess fuel and allows the car to start. (I found this buried in in some Holden info)

Maybe there is an intermittently faulty injector over fuelling things?
 
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