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Another 355 stroker thread

Brendo169

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Ok so im just sizing up the option of building a stroker for my vs clubsport

Im after everyones opinion on the following set up


-come or scat 355 kit (not sure what the benefit of forged pistons is?)
-heads ported and polished
-crane 286 cam
-roller rockers
-starr performance manifold (is this the best option)
-2 bolt mains
-Rollmaster Double Row Timing Chain
-injectors?? ls1? super6?
-anything else ive forgotten

Also do you think its possible to complete such a build for $10k with all work done by professionals
 

Boonz

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from experience(snapped crank), buy a COME, crankshaft rebuilders, SCAT or billet steel crank... will set you back roughly $1600 but is worth doing properly...
also, if your going to stay with two bolt mains, run a stud girdle..
forged pistons are only really needed for forced induction applications, flat tops are still fine...
the super 6 injectors are more than capable for supplying enough fuel,
crane 286 cam is pretty mild in a stroker, is well suited for boosted applications...
bolt on adjustable rockers are fine, either crane or street/yella terra are good...

what compression ratio are you going to run? what kind of power output are you looking for?

i made 232 rwkw with 9.8:1 compression, crane 286 cam, and a torque power manifold.... not heaps of power N/A but its been built for a blower bit later down the track
 

soop

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More compression the better.
I'd go 10:1 at minimum. I'm fairly sure crane recomend a Minimum of 10:1 with a 286 cam.

For 250rwkw, I'd go a Crane 288.
Save you money on the headwork, they should flow 450hp as standard anyway.
maybe invest in a 4bolt main convesion.

Another option is to go with a Torquepower manifold and have the injector bosses drilled out and a 1000cfm throttle body. I've heared good things about these manifolds.

I'd also debur the block and rebuild the oil pump. There are mods you can do to make the standard oil pump work as good as any aftermarket item. (PM me and I can give you some details).
Also, your clubsport injectors should be ample IMO.

10-15k should be about right too.
But remember you'll have to have the stroker kit balanced and block machined.
 

ari666

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96SEN8R

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Ok so im just sizing up the option of building a stroker for my vs clubsport

Im after everyones opinion on the following set up


-come or scat 355 kit (not sure what the benefit of forged pistons is?)
-heads ported and polished
-crane 286 cam
-roller rockers
-starr performance manifold (is this the best option)
-2 bolt mains
-Rollmaster Double Row Timing Chain
-injectors?? ls1? super6?
-anything else ive forgotten

Also do you think its possible to complete such a build for $10k with all work done by professionals

Simple answer is yes.. So go see frank at 308 performance in malaga and he will get you on the road easily for 10k (not the best personal skills, but builds a good engine). ls1 injectors will be the go. Dual plane hi-rise from torque power over the starr forsure, en i can say this because ive had both on my 355. The h286 will make enuf power to get you moving, with decent driveability and cops arent going to back flip. Lots of tunes out there for them aswell. The solid 288 for a street car and a budget of 10k.. forget it! 10.1:1 comp is perfect. Scat crank will be fine, there are horror stories out there bout plenty of brands. No need for stud girdle, 4 bolt mains, h-beam rods and forged pistons if you want to stay to a budget. They are more for big rpm with solids en forced induction. Hope this helps a bit.
 

VLDavo

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id invest in some alloy heads .. you can get em pretty cheap flowing 500hp+ outa the box just something i would consider if your gonna stay n/a and once the power bug hits you will want more out of it
 

soop

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id invest in some alloy heads .. you can get em pretty cheap flowing 500hp+ outa the box just something i would consider if your gonna stay n/a and once the power bug hits you will want more out of it

Yeah of course, lets spend 50% of the budget on some overkill heads... wtf?
VN heads are FINE upto 400-450RWHP. Then you can do work to them.

Can get a set for $250, not $3500.
 

ari666

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id invest in some alloy heads ..

cast iron heads are better than alloy. once cast reaches temp it cant absorb any more heat, thus the hot gasses get transfered to the exhaust system. if your headers are well insulated they will also keep the heat moving and you will have a well setup system.

alloy dissipates heat really well so the only benefit i can figure is that you might have slightly lower operating temps... but your robbing yourself of power.

so alloy heads out of the box flow better than cast? so what? get the cast ports exactly the same as the alloy ports and you will ALWAYS see more power from cast.

dont believe me? google it. "thermal dynamics"
 
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