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Buick and Ecotec V6 Performance Upgrades

losh1971

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Yeah but it gave me the excuse to build a new one.
Me too ;);). I know people over the years have said go V8 but I have no interest in going down that path with my bus. The old V6 is putting out 124kw at the wheels at the moment and if it gets 140kw that would be enough for me. I can get a couple of spare engines for next to nix and swap all my performance parts over if I ever blew my current donk or it started to burn oil. I love that I get 11kph with AC running. V8 would be a fair bit more fuel than that and when the price goes back up to $1.65 - $1.70 a litre in a few months time economy will be really important thing over massive torque gains. My current fuel bill is $80-$90 a week. When fuel goes back up it will be closer to $100 a week, depending how much I drive and if I had V8 it would be over $130 a week.
 

LSV MALOUF

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Here's a few ideas and problems and a few tips if you are talking about boost in the future get some 130 lb valve springs now but if u keep it atmo just a slightly heavier spring will do a fair old rev on a decent cam or the higher ratio rocker if u want ultimate efficiency and rpm spend a lil more and get roller tipped rockers like the yellas they're worth it mace rockers are just oem welded up but they're a good easy option for a bit of response,I've gone through the same thing recently doing my budget sleeper ,with old rings/bearings and mixed pistons with comp ring gapped over 40 thou and bored deglazed by hand I run 20psi on this bitsa l36 daily no blow by and no oil useage and pump 98 fuel being not that bad I'd suggest shave it as far as manifold will let ya if u stay na as they're not very high compression and as far as a bit more compression goes that's not what's going to glaze the bore the builders poor choice in rings and lube is one thing you will find to be more a problem,poor part choice combined with a poor bore finish is something find myself having to fix in customers vehicles coming to me with problems after Being built and oil/oiling problems in particular,it's a going trend where I am no competent auto trans builder and no decent machine shop anymore
 

losh1971

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I already have the crank bearings replaced. Only thing left that I will be doing engine wise is head overhaul with some valve reshaping 15thou shave and some mild porting. I'm not camming as I have already had the timing cover off twice and I now have over 122rwkw and I'm getting close to what I want out of my V6. I have a machine shop that has been around for a long time. The new owner builds race engines. That part I have covered. Looking at easy options in the way of an SC. I was thinking SC14 but it will look messy and really requires the TB moved to the front of the charger IIC. If I can find a manifold I can import a M62 and mount that and make it look factory. Won't achieve 10psi but i'm not looking for massive gains, just a bit of fun and something I can mostly do myself.

Like I mentioned in my build thread I am considering pulling the heads of the donor fairly soon. Might even drop them off and get the head work done. I have enough money and a bit bored of just saving everything I can, going nuts not spending anything on the hobbies AKA ute over the last month.
 

LSV MALOUF

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It should be crisp solid fun even on 10psi u won't need to go 130lb valve spring then but for what it's worth I'd look for some l67 heads ect save some manifold fiddling time
 

losh1971

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L67 heads won't fit on an L27 I've been told? I think max is like 6 - 7psi on an M62. A M90 would be better but getting a manifold will be the challenge.
 

losh1971

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Bugger thought was a l36 u were on the right path then
Thanks anyway. Hey if you don't mind and have some good ideas I'd appreciate talking about this in my build thread. It's against forum rules to talk about similar things in two different threads. My fault for posting in two threads BTW..
 
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