Busted wheel stud option

[r3b3lw0lf]

Hey guys.
Washed car today n notice im missing a nut n then seen it busted. Looking at supercheap...

AL-KO Wheel Stud And Nut Set - 1/2" UNF Kit - Black - 490360

Or

AL-KO Wheel Studs And Nut Set - 7/16" Kit - Black - 490260

Im unsure of size i need or if these are the right ones lol.
Would i be better going to pinchapart lmao

Sorry if this seems all in bold. Copy n pasted from supercheap lol.

 

[Voodoo_SV6]

I've always used Jax for replacing studs. They usually charge around $25 supply and fit with me.

Easier than taking the wheel off and doing it myself

 

[Immortality]

Commodores use metric wheel studs. M12x1.5mm I believe.

I've always used Jax for replacing studs. They usually charge around $25 supply and fit with me.

Easier than taking the wheel off and doing it myself

Do you bust off wheel studs on a regular basis?

 

[Voodoo_SV6]

Commodores use metric wheel studs. M12x1.5mm I believe.



Do you bust off wheel studs on a regular basis?

Me? Nahhhhh. My old Subaru had two stretched threads after a dealer service and just recently, my daughters Kia was dealer serviced and the following day I went to replace her brake pads and the first wheel I tried to loosen was over tightened. I went to my local Jax and called the dealer when there were 7 of the 16 wheel nuts could not be loosened with hand tools. 3 of the studs need to use an angle grinder to cut them off.

Dealer was called and advised they would reimburse all costs, they did.

I use a calibrated torque wrench to tighten my nuts.

 

[Immortality]

Ahh, fair enough. Fairly sad that a dealership is using a rattle gun to fasten wheel nuts instead of a torque wrench. Dangerous really as a wheel could potentially come off causing an accident.

 

[Voodoo_SV6]

Time is money to them. I've been service crew in a race team, torque wrenches were the only option to tighten wheel nuts after two wheels came off the race car in a stage (before my time).

 

[Immortality]

These days I use a rattle gun to snug up the wheel nuts but always a torque wrench to do the final bit. Considering how much places like that charge per hour I think it would be very reasonable to assume the job would be done correctly even if it takes a couple of extra minutes to torque the wheel nuts to spec.

At the end of the day it's a safety issue.

The worst part is the owners manual for any vehicle will explicitly state the correct wheel fitting procedure and torque settings so it's reasonable to expect a dealership to meet those standards they expect vehicle owners to follow.

Time is definitely money but short cuts and laziness can cost lives. What is more important?

 

[r3b3lw0lf]

Thanx for reply people. Jax is straight across road from me, if need be... but will try myself first..
Havent changed it yet.
Finished work yesterday and called into diy parts. Where you learn as you go lol. Wheels already off. Easy as to get brake calipre off. 19ml spanner. Then pulled off drum/disc.
Then i got frustrated. I used rolled up floor mats, door cards etc to hit the studs out... each time i would fk the thread. Well after 3rd set, i seen nut on ground. Picked it up, put it on a stud, hit it out. Woot. Shoulda done that first lol.
So now have 5 studs. Should i replace all on the hub or just the fkd one?
When i put a new one in place, 2 questions.
1: would doing nut up set the stud or is there another trick to get it in place?
2: whats the torque number you tighten to lol?
Thanx.

 

[Nut Kracker]

.......2: whats the torque number you tighten to lol?
Thanx.

VT wheel nut is 110 to 140 nm. So I'd say yours would be the same.

 

[Voodoo_SV6]

I would imagine you would need to bring the stud up significantly harder than the wheel nut setting, you want it tight on the hub. Setting it to just the wheel nut tension would allow it to not be completely bedded against the hub, potentially meaning the nut will be loose as it beds itself. I would be hammering it on the head from the rear side of the hub to bed it. But I could be wrong with my theory.