Welcome to Just Commodores, a site specifically designed for all people who share the same passion as yourself.

New Posts Contact us

Just Commodores Forum Community

It takes just a moment to join our fantastic community

Register

Buying A VT

samuel.scott93

New Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2010
Messages
30
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Inner West Sydney
Members Ride
98 VT SPAC 3.8 Manual
Ok, my first post here, go easy on me.
I have a 2001 N16 pulsar manual sedan that I want to sell. I am in the process of purchasing a VT S pack, manual. It has nearly 300k on the clock, new engine 6000 k's ago with 120k on it. Tyres and shocks seem to be fairly newish. The body has a few minor knocks and scuffs, but in good condition otherwise, has a sunroof.
Engine looks imaculate, purrs like a kitten, drives rather smoothly. The only issue is the price and the gearbox.
3rd gear is difficult to get in. pushing it in hard grinds a little and wont go in unless you bring it back into neutral and then slip it back in.
The seller tells me that its a rubber mount or something for that particular gear that needs to be replaced, like a 200 dollar fix. I think it could be a Syncro. He does not want to get it fixed even if I cover the cost for it.
How much of a hole could I be digging myself into? I could probably get the gearbox fixed up with the extra cash from the sale of my current car, but is it more likely to be a Syncro, or just this rubber mount thing in the gear stick?
Will answer with as much info as I know if asked.
 

Kiddo

You're serious bro?!
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
1,681
Reaction score
6
Points
0
Location
Melbourne
Members Ride
Mitsubishi Colt
What i would do is take it to a mechanic for a decent inspection. If the seller wont agree to that, then walk away :)
 

Tasmaniak

Not a valid input....
Joined
Apr 30, 2005
Messages
8,094
Reaction score
131
Points
63
Age
41
Location
S.E. Melbourne
Website
www.ranjinstallations.com.au
Members Ride
VR Stato, C180 Kompressor, Prado and Ka
Run a mile.

That gearbox would've been having "issues" 6,000 kilometres ago when the new engine supposedly went in. Why wasn't it fixed? Seems a natural course for me if the engine was really replaced.
 

dirty hands

Active Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2013
Messages
1,445
Reaction score
11
Points
38
Location
ipswich qld
Members Ride
magna
only new to VT myself

a vt in that condition should only go less the $4000
the km are high
if gears dont work properly walk away now
plenty of others on the market
 

_R_J_K_

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2008
Messages
6,723
Reaction score
1,856
Points
113
Members Ride
Zenki S14
If something is happening to a specific particular gear, then it's going to cost more than $200 to fix. Think about the labor of pulling out and re-fitting the box (easy enough to do yourself though if you're keen), then stripping the box down and replacing that synchro. Gunna be much more than 2 hundy.

Also, would be aiming for at least a VT S2, even then I think you'd be better off getting a VX.
 

samuel.scott93

New Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2010
Messages
30
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Inner West Sydney
Members Ride
98 VT SPAC 3.8 Manual
I had a chat with my friend in QLD who has owned a VT clubby for nearly a decade, she says go for it. Even if the gearbox costs me to get fixed, itle be worth it. I'm getting the seller to dig up the receipts and info regarding the engine transplant. Ill be able to afford any repairs once the sale of my current car goes through. But just wondering. How much would it cost me for a Syncro to be fixed? alternatively, what if its just a linkage?
My pulsar had a full box overhaul and new clutch for about 1300 bucks, would I be looking at the same sort of dollars?
And it is the 2000 model S2 S
 

Pollushon

Boost gives me a bar....
Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Messages
3,750
Reaction score
2,851
Points
113
Location
Canberra
Members Ride
VY SS
I may be blind but you've left off the all important how much you're proposing to spend on a Commodore in its twilight years, regardless of the new engine.

There are so many decent, low km and newer Commodores for a few $k on the market. Personally I wouldn't even consider it unless it was < $1k and that's only because I do all my own work and I have a very decent Getrag sitting in the garage.
 

ConstantVelocity

New Member
Joined
May 14, 2013
Messages
378
Reaction score
6
Points
0
Location
ACT
Members Ride
VTII SS M6
Sounds like a syncro buggered. How much does he want for it? Commodores of this era generally have more stuff go wrong than japanese runabouts like your Pulsar, especially with 300,000 km and especially if young guys have driven them hard.
 

samuel.scott93

New Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2010
Messages
30
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Inner West Sydney
Members Ride
98 VT SPAC 3.8 Manual
He wants 2500 for it. has 4 months rego. I will be taking my boss to check it out (proud owner of an Audi RS4 and a previous owner of a group A V).
The engine has done 125 roughly. Everything in the engine bay looks brand new. Suspension, Tyres, Clutch, Radiator, all newish.
He bought a Silvia so he doesn't really have the time to deal with the Commodore. He's keeping it garaged for me.
My friend up north with the clubsport VT has told me a few things in particular to look out for, and that I should take it and just get the gearbox fixed. If I can afford to get it all paid for, gearbox sorted, insurance (p plater) and next rego done, and then manage to sell my pulsar, ill be so far ahead. Besides, the pulsar has cost me for a gearbox overhaul, new clutch, 200 dollar ignition coil, new belts, engine mounts, rocker cover gaskets. in the couple of years that I have had it, it feels like I have had nothing but trouble. I didn't pick the car, my dad forced me to take it and get rid of my old VN (not much ever went wrong with it).
One of my customers today told me he knew a guy in blacktown who does gearbox repairs unofficially.
I feel the commodore will cost me less in maintenance once everything is done than my pulsar has.
And it will be the car that I picked, that I worked for and paid for, that I will continue putting effort into. not something that my dad wanted me to have because it would "be cheap on fuel" and "cost less to fix" and "be reliable" and is "safe" with "not much power" etc.
 
Top