304 C.O.M.E Racing package for my VT Clubby 5.0LT

[VTClubby98]

I think ill rake my car to come racing in vic in a few montsh and go with what i originaly posted, would stroking to 396 make the walls too thin? maybe 383 would be a safer bet

 

[DAKSTER]

Dont know if you consider this a good option, but I have an LS3 crate motor currently enroute from the US. Its a long motor, still need to add air and fuel systems etc.. but they claim I should get 330kw (at the flywheel) with standard fuel, air and electronic systems. I know its no race motor but it should be strong and streetable and I am considering a whipple to fill the valley, which they say should cause no problems

$6500 landed in Brissy as below.. should be a good base for a nice engine. Of course, then you still need all the other stuff to make it go, and a gearbox conversion..

Power: 450 HP @ 5900 RPM, 444 ft. lbs. of torque @ 4600 RPM
Displacement: 376 CID, 6.2L
Bore x Stroke: 4.060” x 3.620”
Compression Ratio: 9:1
Recommended Fuel: 92 Octane
Block: LSX Cast Iron with 6 bolt cross bolted main caps.
Crankshaft: Nodular Iron, standard 6 bolt flange
Connecting Rods: Powdered Metal Steel
Pistons: Forged Aluminum
Camshaft: Steel Hydraulic Roller Tappet
Cam Lift: .551” Intake / .522” exhaust
Cam Duration @ .050”: 204 deg. Intake / 211 deg. Exhaust
Lobe Separation: N/A
Cylinder Heads: Aluminum LS3 Rectangular style ports.
Combustion Chamber: 68cc
Valves: 2.160” Intake/ 1.590” Exhaust
Rocker Arms: Cast Roller Trunnion, 1.7:1 Ratio
Balance: Internal
Reluctor: 58X
Maximum GM Recommended RPM: 6600

 

[juiceie vh sle]

I think ill rake my car to come racing in vic in a few montsh and go with what i originaly posted, would stroking to 396 make the walls too thin? maybe 383 would be a safer bet

all the stroke comes from the crank not by expanding the bore. the only reason the bores should be touched is to go to the next piston size if the bores are scratched or damaged. if you stoke a 304 block to 396 you'll find that the piston skirt will exit the bottom of the bore on BDC allowing the piston to kick slightly wearing out the piston so youll be replacing them every year. so if you want a reliable engine keep the stroke to 355 or 383.

 

[yxyx64]

Its a Distibutor, its apart of the ignition system, its what puts the high volts in the right firing order into the spark plugs price all depends on what you want

simple question...what does a UPGRADED DIZZY do for your money?
Is the hall effect unit better? or a better rotor than a 901? or a better cap than a 926? or is it shiny? or is it a compulsory part of a complete new system that is somehow better than OEM Bosch in some way.........please explain if I should be looking at this modification.

 

[Munz]

if it ain't broken I wouldn't bother - its just spark

 

[Darren_L]

simple question...what does a UPGRADED DIZZY do for your money?
Is the hall effect unit better? or a better rotor than a 901? or a better cap than a 926? or is it shiny? or is it a compulsory part of a complete new system that is somehow better than OEM Bosch in some way.........please explain if I should be looking at this modification.

an upgraded dizzy will do squat for an EFI 5L.
all the distributor does in these engines is distribute spark via a rotor button and trigger the ignition module. An expensive aftermarket job will do exactly the same thing in exactly the same way. It will just cost you more. The standard Bosch unit is fine.

btw to the OP, good onya for sticking with the Aussie V8.

 

[flanker]

I'd get a 355/383 crate motor built and if funds permit supercharge it (whipple), and have it freighted to a good workshop to put it all in and get it running, you won't have to lift a finger, and you'll get a lazy 300rwkw

I forgot the name, but theres a place that does a t56 conversion for the 304's for around the 5g mark (not including labor),I'd look into that too

Its not complicated. Your sticking with the holden, you want 300rwkw so you'll have to stroke it. It needs to be street-able, so S/C it. Theres your answer

 

[yxyx64]

an upgraded dizzy will do squat for an EFI 5L.
all the distributor does in these engines is distribute spark via a rotor button and trigger the ignition module. An expensive aftermarket job will do exactly the same thing in exactly the same way. It will just cost you more. The standard Bosch unit is fine.

btw to the OP, good onya for sticking with the Aussie V8.

yep, that was my point............if someone is trying to sell you a performance dizzy for an efi holden then walk away.

I'd get a 355/383 crate motor built and if funds permit supercharge it (whipple), and have it freighted to a good workshop to put it all in and get it running, you won't have to lift a finger, and you'll get a lazy 300rwkw

I forgot the name, but theres a place that does a t56 conversion for the 304's for around the 5g mark (not including labor),I'd look into that too

Its not complicated. Your sticking with the holden, you want 300rwkw so you'll have to stroke it. It needs to be street-able, so S/C it. Theres your answer

not so sure a there is anything lazy about 300rwkw but this guy speaks good sense.

My experience is that the more $$ I spent on a car the less I ended up using it because there was less that I could use it for. Buyer beware.

 

[brandon17]

ive got a 5ltr vt clubby too , and i brought a 5.7 and 6sp to put in it but after looking around i decided to get rid of them and the 5.0, i dont know why, but im looking to do something like what you are so let me know how you go with it

 

[VTClubby98]

Yeah ill keep you posted, the car is in the shop getting new tailshaft, and after that straight in to get a complete repspray, and then ill be ordering parts from C.O.M.E Racing, still working on a decent workshop to do all this, was going with chip torque for the tune after install, anyone know of any decent pre LS workshops, as places like hi torque and power torque work with LS engines.