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changing shocks and spirings?

350chev1994

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hi everybody before i begin im sure that som1 has covered this before but i have a few things to add to it. ok so the other day i bought a set of superlow king springs and monroe gt shocks i got both springs and shocks in a kit for $600 (what do u think about price?) anyway i hvae very minimal experience on suspension work however due to a very tight budget and the fact i want to learn anyway i have decided to fit these myself. now i've spent an hour or so crawling around under the my car (btw it's vs live axle sedan) and the rear end looks to be pretty straight forward, im not so sure about the front though first before i go doing anything i have been told that a new rear panard rod is needed (i don't see why)i have also been told somthing about these plates with bearings on top of the front struts need replacing $112 however i was hoping to delay this for a while or just replace the bearings $40 if anyone can elaborate on how these function and general idea to what i should expect i would appreciate it. the next thing is the bushes (all round) im concerned that some of these are cracked and would lowering the car just be to much stress for the old ones (another thing if i can delay for a few months it would be best). now as for a wheel alignment the nearest shop to get this done from my house is about 15k's how much would lowering throw the alignment out and would i be able to responsibly and safely drive from my house to the shop after being lowered. so they are all the little things i would like to hear the opinions of others on. and also if someone could direct me to a step by step guide for removal and installation of front struts and springs. which brings be to one last thing no one and i mean no one can give me a straight answer on this ok to tell the truth ive only asked the locals that keep saying "Hey, my car needs a wash":upyours: everytime they see me anywhere near mine, anyway do i need spring compressors i have had 3 different answers for that simple 2 possible answer yes or no question anyway all help is appreciated and thankyou for reading my extended novel
 

DevilDRake

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Jesus it took alot to not skip lines and **** there.. Man use a LITTLE punctuation!

OT: The rears should be straight forward as you said, you will probably need spring compressors too.

As for the fronts, you don't NEED strut tops, but it is recommended to change them. Chances are they've probably already been changed anyway.


When taking the fronts off, make sure you have it against a wall so the strut top cannot shoot away (and when i say shoot it bloody fires like 10 metres away - I found out the hard way.. ) and then change them over.

I don't know if it's the same as my car or not, but it's pretty straight forward.. Just look up in the search menu for write ups, surely someone has a 'how to' on how to do it.
 

350chev1994

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lol sorry bout the punctuation my highschool english teacher would kill me. anway ive been looking through the forums and yes i've found some useful information, however i have had people tell me different to these write ups. the main thing is the panhard rod because i have really broken the bank already as im currently unemployed, i would really like to avoid buying one but it's starting to look like i have to.
 

TONESY89

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Ive had all those hassles replaced link pin bushes and rods front upper control arm bushes pan hard rod bushes had to cut my bump stops remount the exhaust cause was hitting on the diff now i gotta do tie rod ends trust me I know how u feel. Shits expensive
 

vhvaliantcharger

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the penhard rod can wait if you dont have the cash, im not shore how much lowing it will push the diff across, the purpose of the penhard rod is to set the diff to the center of the car, and the replacement people are talking about is an adjustable one witch when lowered you can adjusted the diff one way or the other to suit the lowering kit but i would say you would have anuff room to lower it with out doing it but i would do it as soon as you could do it as it is better, the pedders ones are around $180 as for the front springs i would use a spring compressor for sure, i wouldnt try it with out them at all if your car is stock hight as can hurt you badly if anything goes bad, hope that helps mate
 

350chev1994

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ty for your help devildrake and vhvaliantcharger that's cleared up alot forme. so to clarify this the spring compressor is used whilst removing the front struts to prevent accidents as spring is still under pressure (i think i got that right). so would i need it to install the new assembly and would i be able to compress the springs using those straps with the ratchet like thing on them, or something similar like a clamp. obviously i would make sure it's not going to slip, but im sure there's some sort of backyard trick for it if not whats a spring compressor worth?.
 

vhvaliantcharger

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yes thats right spring compressors are to compress the spring so you can remove the top hat safely, i played with loads of vs's,
jack the car up,
remove the wheel,
undo the 6?? nuts from the strut top hat in the engine bay,
push it down and you can pull it out beside the guard,
then put the spring compressors on and tighten them up to compress the spring,
there is one nut on top of the top hat, undo it then under it will be one more nut (same size)
this will release the spring for you,
the new lowered springs should not need to be compressed
(i have never had to compress a lowered set ever)
hope it helps mate, pm me if ya need more help
 

350chev1994

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sweet as first thing tommorow morning up she go's, or should i say on it's guts she go's lol. just had one last thought i have 19"x35x245 rims does any1 know how guard clearance will go when i stood them side by side with stocko's? they were about an inch bigger overall btw im putting king spring super lows in.
 
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