Coolant leak - Head Gaskets or Overflow leak?

[myksomerville]

So I have a coolant leak that I'm trying to get to the bottom of.

A while ago the overflow outlet nozzle on the radiator neck snapped, and I puttied it up as a temporary fix until I could afford a PWR radiator (I prefer to fix things with stronger solutions).

Everything has been OK until recently, I have found coolant getting sprayed on the drivers front wheel and frequently need to top it up.

I bled the system Thursday, and had a temperature warning Friday that vanished and didn't come back. Radiator took around 3L top up.

Getting under the car, the bottom of the overflow is pretty stained from spray but I can't see any signs of a definite leak from either the radiator or say a cracked overflow bottle.

I'm thinking that the putty is failing and stopping a vacuum forming in the system, so the coolant boils and can't suck back to the radiator.

A mechanic friend thinks its head gaskets.

I'm probably going to replace the radiator with OEM in the hope that this fixes the problem. Is there any way to verify whether it is the head gaskets?

 

[gossie]

You simply need to spend some money on it.
Leave it with your preferred mechanic for a week.

 

[lout]

pressure test the system and fix the leak
putty is a patch, for a couple of days
not until you are ready to repair it properly

 

[Simso1]

2 options, Diy or give it to a mechanic

If Diy, then, It will cost you less than a $100 to own a simple coolant pressure testing unit.
Any known issues, fix them now eg your coolant overflow being temp fixed
I would eliminate any leaks first in the system, if the system is good then look at reasons why its getting hot.
Blocked radiator, water pump weak, thermo fans not working, bad pressure cap etc etc
Look for obvious, eg milky oil, next put a sniffer into the radiator and check to see if you have combustion gases in the system
if all is good, replace your water pump, replace your radiator

It can become expensive not knowing the reason, mechanics follow the same process they just simp,y have more experience and have the tools already on hand

 

[rambunctious]

So I have a coolant leak that I'm trying to get to the bottom of.

A while ago the overflow outlet nozzle on the radiator neck snapped, and I puttied it up as a temporary fix until I could afford a PWR radiator (I prefer to fix things with stronger solutions).

Everything has been OK until recently, I have found coolant getting sprayed on the drivers front wheel and frequently need to top it up.

I bled the system Thursday, and had a temperature warning Friday that vanished and didn't come back. Radiator took around 3L top up.

Getting under the car, the bottom of the overflow is pretty stained from spray but I can't see any signs of a definite leak from either the radiator or say a cracked overflow bottle.

I'm thinking that the putty is failing and stopping a vacuum forming in the system, so the coolant boils and can't suck back to the radiator.

A mechanic friend thinks its head gaskets.

I'm probably going to replace the radiator with OEM in the hope that this fixes the problem. Is there any way to verify whether it is the head gaskets?

1) Fit new radiator and at the same time degrease/clean all coolant from where ever it is
2) Fill with correct coolant MIXED correctly.
3) Be sure to bleed the system of all or any AIR.
4) Start car-run until hot-check thoroughly for signs of any leak

FWIW head gaskets will leak if too much coolant (not mixed correctly) is used.
Ask me how I know after trusting a dead beat drop kick useless dick head of a mechanic.

About 6 years ago I fitted a new radiator to a vz cost nearly $400 from Zupps.
Month later I fitted exactly same radiator to another vz but this one was $160 at Repco (discounted for me through my contact)
So try the after market outlets ripco superthief autoburn etc maybe even ebay

https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?...=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=radiator+vx&_osacat=0

Ebay link as a reference only. Make your own decision but no way I would be paying a huge premium for PWR unless it was an absolutely schmick low K ve and even then I would think long and hard before buying a PWR for a ve

 

[rambunctious]

2 options, Diy or give it to a mechanic

If Diy, then, It will cost you less than a $100 to own a simple coolant pressure testing unit.
Any known issues, fix them now eg your coolant overflow being temp fixed
I would eliminate any leaks first in the system, if the system is good then look at reasons why its getting hot.
Blocked radiator, water pump weak, thermo fans not working, bad pressure cap etc etc
Look for obvious, eg milky oil, next put a sniffer into the radiator and check to see if you have combustion gases in the system
if all is good, replace your water pump, replace your radiator

It can become expensive not knowing the reason, mechanics follow the same process they just simp,y have more experience and have the tools already on hand

OP is saying radiator neck was temporarily fixed not coolant bottle

 

[greenacc]

As he said above, replacement radiators from parts stores are pretty good. I got one from Autobarn that lasted years and years.
Your bodgy fix is obviously not working well enough. Even if it turns out to be head gaskets you won't know until you put a new rad in it. Your radiator cap is probably cactus as well. How much pressure can you feel in the hoses after you switch the engine off! ??

 

[lmoengnr]

New radiator cap?

 

[Fu Manchu]

Replace the radiator.
The reservoir is overflowing. Coolant is coming out but not back in. The reservoir has a small rectangular hole by design in the top half to allow this exact scenario to occur. The spray will be from it blowing while the car is driving.

The cap is letting coolant out but not back in.

Replace the cap. I prefer to use genuine 140kPa caps.

Coolant system repairs and bleeding

https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/vz-and-ve-alloytec-pcv-problem-fix.279039/