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Cut & Polish before sealing?

ScottSV6

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There are abrasive polishes and non abrasive polishes. The term 'polish' is widely misused. In ideal conditions, there's no need to 'fill' anything. The finish is refined to a point beyond the point of even being fill-able. The idea is to actually remove any polishing oils after machining, that can fill as well, to make sure there is nothing left to be filled - ie, leaving clean, perfectly refined paint. There are guys who have been in the game much longer than I have who will be able to word that better (^^^ Like Scott.. Hi Scott) - but hopefully that makes sense.

To use the sand paper analogy, there are different grades of sand paper, in the same way that there are different grades of polish. Aggressive compounds and pads remove scratches but will often leave hazing and holograms - so you refine with finer grades of polish and pads, until the finish is crystal.

You have worded everything better then i would have.

You would probably put them in these categories:

Cutting Compound
Abrasive Polish
Finishing Polish (Abrasive) and also (Non Abrasive)
All in One > Basically a Finishing Polish and Wax in one, most of these also contain fillers.

Wether its a Cutting Compound or an All in One Polish they are all classed as "Polishes" as they refine the paint work which is what the term "Polish" means, the word "Cut n Polish" refers to no particular type of product, its just an old term that refers to cutting the paint work then polishing it.

Most polishes contain abrasives, it just depends how abrasive they are as to what category they fall into.

I could ramble on but its getting late. LOL
 

ScottSV6

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As long as they are doing an annual inspection then it should be fine, its the ones that give you a lifetime warranty, and tell you that you dont need a reapplication or inspection that you have to run from. 99% of customers arent going to know when the protection wears off and needs reapplying.

No idea why it should need extra rust protection lol.. dont they come with it normally? :D but the sound deadening alone is worth the money, makes a major difference.

With rust, or rust protection? LOL J/K. Not sure about Kia's but i know prestige cars roll through several electromagnetic tanks to charge the metal then through a zinc tank so it magnatically sticks and gets into places where primer cannot be sprayed to prevent rust etc.
 

DAKSTER

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Always wondered why I should have to pay for 'additional' rust protection. As you say, they are treated before any paint even goes on them. You would kinda like to be able to assume it wasnt going to rust anyway.

I did it for the sound deadening, I have never seen the slightest trace of rust on any of my Kias, but they are definitely quieter with the sound deadening.
 

calais06

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Thought I would give it a go tonight as what I thought were 'swirls' are so small only I seemed to notice them..(on roof).

Washed car, clay barred, used a polish (was meguires or mothers, can't remember, to fill the small swirls as a temp fix), used the paint prep and then the sealant polish.

I was surprised by how much crap the clay bar actually removed.. Was a pleasant surprise. The back of the boot was the worst by far.
Took me from 9:30pm - 12:30am to do everything but the wash, and it looks great now.. Can't wait to see it in sunlight and not from heaps of fluros lol.

Thanks for everyone's input :)
 

TraidMarc

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It's a really common misconception - and if the person using the abrasives doesn't know what they're doing, it most certainly WILL stuff your paint. Nothing stupid about asking a question like that.

I used to have a metallic brown type 3 VW station wagon, the guy that built the car flared the guards(fyber-glass) and they just flowed with the rest of the body, had 255's on the back, 225's on the front. was the best looking type 3 station wagon I have seen. Shine on the paint like looking at a glass full of metallic brown coke, I was only sixteen, 1st year apprentice electrician, had some cash, loved my car, bought cut & polish, used to spend every saturday cleaning & loving, no more nice paint job, cut it all away!!!!!!
 

TraidMarc

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I used to have a metallic brown type 3 VW station wagon, the guy that built the car flared the guards(fyber-glass) and they just flowed with the rest of the body, had 255's on the back, 225's on the front. was the best looking type 3 station wagon I have seen. Shine on the paint like looking at a glass full of metallic brown coke, I was only sixteen, 1st year apprentice electrician, had some cash, loved my car, bought cut & polish, used to spend every saturday cleaning & loving, no more nice paint job, cut it all away!!!!!!

Then I had a 1969 beetle, had mat red paint, cut & polish, and she came up all shiny..........;
 

DAKSTER

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I got a 63 beetle in the shed out at the farm.. my first car, hasnt been driven for 30 years. It could probably do with a polish lol.. if you get bored..
 

sfor

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mothers all the way best brand.
ultimate wash caranuba blah blah
paint cleaner
wax
= sore arm + shiny car
 

TinSnips

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mothers all the way best brand.
ultimate wash caranuba blah blah
paint cleaner
wax
= sore arm + shiny car

I think there would be a number of high end manufacturers who would disagree with you there.

Mothers is a better option than polyglaze or kitten (for example) - but best?? Not really.
 

toey@carfx

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Thought I would give it a go tonight as what I thought were 'swirls' are so small only I seemed to notice them..(on roof).

Washed car, clay barred, used a polish (was meguires or mothers, can't remember, to fill the small swirls as a temp fix), used the paint prep and then the sealant polish.

I was surprised by how much crap the clay bar actually removed.. Was a pleasant surprise. The back of the boot was the worst by far.
Took me from 9:30pm - 12:30am to do everything but the wash, and it looks great now.. Can't wait to see it in sunlight and not from heaps of fluros lol.

Thanks for everyone's input :)

well you could of saved your arms the trouble of using the megs/mothers polish as the pba 601 would of removed all the fillers and oils it left behind. this is so the tpp 105 will adhere to the paint so it will protect for months. basically the polish was a waste of time
 
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