You don’t mention your friends model but modern cars like VE and VF need really good batteries else odd faults can occur…
And what we are saying is that the battery may be at end of life… It may still give 12.6v but can no longer store large enough amounts of energy which results in voltage drop when load is applied.
For example, during cranking, a good fully charged battery will still provide 10v or so but this isn’t a great way to determine battery condition. Instead, I’d remove the battery and get it load tested using a modern battery tester. I‘d also get the charging circuit tested to ensure it will correctly charge the battery. This removes issues around battery and charging circuits being the cause of problems (which modern cars need else odd problems occur)…
As to why you have problems with radio, wiper and dash, who knows but if the battery tested OK maybe all will work after reconnecting the battery to the car… Sort of a cold reboot…
If you still have issues after disconnecting testing and reconnecting the battery, I’d check all fuses. It may be that some fuses blew when NRMA recharged the battery if their charger pumped high current into the battery and/or their equipment was faulty (but it’s unlikely).
If the battery load tests ok and the charging circuit tests ok and all fuses are ok and you’ve disconnected the battery waited 10 minutes and reconnected the battery to cold reboot the car, and the faults still exist, then we need more info about vehicle model and the vehicle behaviour (whether it start, drives, what happens when in key is in acc, when key is in run but not started, etc, etc, etc).