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De-carbonizing Your Engine With Water?

EYY

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You'd probably need to spray if through the maf. I wouldn't think the maf would like it though.

Otherwise, you could probably take the small vaccum line off the back of the manifold and connect it to a bottle of water with another piece of vacuum hose?
 

jgtoranalc

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If I take of the intake tube off before the throttle body, the engine wants to die, can't get a good enough spray in the plenum chamber. Is there another way I could go about it on an ecotec V6?

Are you revving it around 2000rpm when you are spraying the water?
 

Arrowtron

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Are you revving it around 2000rpm when you are spraying the water?

yeah, if the intake hose is fully off it will conk out at 2500rpm or any rpm i have found, so i just partially left it open so i can get some spray in. couldn't tell if there was getting enough water down to make an effect cause the revs were fluctuating since the intake was not connected properly to the throttle body.

Otherwise, you could probably take the small vaccum line off the back of the manifold and connect it to a bottle of water with another piece of vacuum hose?

yup next option i guess, i know there are 3 or 2 vacuum related hoses behind the plenum chamber that would be adequate, unless there is a better option? i just need to get some tube.


come to think of it, the water may not get an evenly spread and go into the inlet closest to the vacuum lines/circled

16f24a.jpg
 

jgtoranalc

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I did this trick after I seen this thread about 2 weeks after I posted in it. I got my extractors going red lol. I can say my Fuel Consumption has changed for the better. A tank of Fuel is lasting me 2 weeks. I'm surprised as it's a 5L too. On the dash it says 14.7L per 100km. Before I did the water trick, I was roughly getting 8 days until I had to refuel.

Does it clean the oxygen sensors while you're doing it aswell?
 

commodore665

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If I take of the intake tube off before the throttle body, the engine wants to die, can't get a good enough spray in the plenum chamber. Is there another way I could go about it on an ecotec V6?

Same deal with the Alloytec , I just removed a vac line on the throttle body , just before the plenum, put my finger over the end ,working quickly spayed some nulon intake cleaner down last time , with a block on the throttle to maintain revs (bogun method yes ) , but the water trick interests me
 

Tasmaniak

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the_boozer

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kais3r have you ever changed a blown head gasket? What did you notice about the cylinder that was blown?
 

kais3r

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No, was just a bad reading, turned out to be ok.
 

WHCapriceHBD

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I have direct experience with this, but in a rotary engine.

As you may know, carbon is a big killer of rotaries, jamming up the apex seals and causing seal failure, etc. A whole lot of the guys at the RX7Club.com forums were huge supporters of the water decarbon method, as apparently it would help keep carbon away from the seals, etc.

I gave it one shot on a 13B-REW in a 1994 car, as people were claiming this was the thing to do, circa 2010. I sprayed the equivalent of 2x 2 litre coke bottles through the engine via manifold vacuum line- while keeping it alive with the throttle linkage in the other hand.

*As some of you might know, its very uncommon for the Series 6/7/8 RX-7 twin rotor, twin turbo engines to survive past 100,000km as this is typically where the seals go, pretty much like clockwork. If you're at 80,000km, you have 20,000km to go before you will need to rebuild. I've owned 12 of these cars at one time, and I can bet money on when seals will fail, and in ten years of being an owner & rebuilder, I have yet to be off with a prediction on how long any one of them will last. I am a rotor nut.

Anyways, this particular car that I gave the water treatment at 80,000km is actually still running now. Its on 130,000km and no signs of low compression yet. Take that for what it is. But you must use enough water. A cup over five minutes is not going to affect anything. A significant amount needs to pass through (over time of course- not all at once) to have any effect.

If it worked well for the rotary I attempted it on (for a laugh really) it will work on a less delicate piston engine I would imagine. Do not pour it in. Use a manifold vacuum line and let it sip. Change the oil immediately afterwards.

If you do it properly by sipping it through slowly, taking the time, your extractors should begin to glow dull red (or in my case, the rotary down pipe began to glow) this is because of the BTUs in water, and the mixture leaning out during the process.

These days if I were to try it (and maybe one day the LS in the Caprice may get a go) I would be using a manifold vacuum line, attached to half a coke bottle (the top half of the bottle, with the vac line plugged into the cap, upside down as a funnel) and I would be spraying the water into the bottle-funnel via a mist from a squirter bottle.

Up to you. I take no responsibility at all, I only offer my observations of it, once, a long time ago.
 
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