Done OIL change and now car has zero power and rattles on drivers side when pushing the pedal OMG !!!

[chrisp]

From an armchair perspective, it does sound a bit like the oil flush might have loosened some gunk and it has possibly damaged a lifter.

I haven’t had an AlloyTec, but I seem to recall from posts by others that sometimes the filter cap does get stuck, so breaking it, and replacing it might be the next step?

 

[Fu Manchu]

Look, it’s really easy to jump to some radical conclusions by guessing and googling.
Unless guided by experience and training, diagnosing things is like this are hazardous to your mental health.

Take a step back. Approach it methodically.

Don’t drive the car for now.
Get a diagnostic tool on it. Have someone pull codes to see what is not happy. There’s no way the car would do that without having something logging a fault.

I’m going to suggest that for the oil filter cap to be hardly removable, someone has previously done it up to FT. It might require the whole oil filter housing to be replaced which isn’t too hard but no doubt unwanted.

Try heating and cooling the cap. Heat gun and then some ice water poured over. Might be enough to get it to come loose.

Or just get A length of pipe on the end of the ratchet. It will either come off or break. If it breaks, it’ll be the cap or the housing. Replace the housing. Wouldn’t be the first time.

I’ve used engine flushes (both home made and bought) since I was in my early teens and never had issue with them.

I’d say there might be additional complications at hand. I recall dad had used a heap of stop leak in his precious Honda Prelude. Then he used an engine flush. That dissolves a lot of the silicone (early 90’s) layered through the engine to stop leaks. That caught up in the sump and clogged the pickup. That cooked the motor and there was a whole lot else happening that he should have paid attention to before it cooked itself. It was a train wreck. I left him to it.

On a more modern car, if there is any oil pressure issues, then there with be adjustments by the ECM to protect the motor.

A diagnostic tool will tell you if it’s been in limp mode for the cars protection. It will change gear shifts to slow the car and moderate power.

It could also be something else entirely and just coincidental.

Get a diag tool onto it.

 

[lout]

get a ring spanner on filter cap
whilst applying pressure
give it a couple of hits on the head with a hammer to jar the threads loose
sounds like the flush loosened a lot of crap which has now blocked the filter
sounds like you need a new mechanic

 

[Pollushon]

It's unlikely missing the filter change and a flush has caused some sudden significant issue, unless it's an already trashed alloytec. It's not easy to block filter galleries short of malice in the combustion palace creating mcnuggets - you'd notice that. Those flush products don't get all that much out

Are you sure the dude put oil back in it? All hoses and connections back in their right place?

Also WTF kind of service costs $1200?

 

[Anthony .]

@bluehighway and others...thanks
Well...its a meter long bar...maybe less... anyway could it be that oil filter is causing those issues?

Car was running fine WITHOUT ANY of those issues described...and the mechanic is good one...does everything by the book or he wont do it at all.
I dont know what he could have fucked up in a simple motor oil change/ windshield wiper motor change job?

Anyway still looking for a culprit. Basic Google search pointed me in direction of cracked PISTON ??!! (loss of power, rattle, sweet smell, white smoke ) but how in hel could that have happened after an oil change (if thats the issue at all)

I forgot to mention it is a dual fuel LPG/petrol car so I will try it tomorrow on LPG alone. Will that eliminate fuel pump out of the equation? So if everythiing is fine then the fuel pump is the problem...somehow I doubt thats the case as it was working fine

I also ran into this thread
https://forums.justcommodores.com.a...eaning-oil-pickup-on-ve-sv6-questions.296092/
second post says if using ENGINE FLUSH after engine oil hasnt been changed in years it may cause more problems than benefits. Im reading through it now...Im bit scared to finish reading as while I was overseas for 2 years I lent the car to my friend who did more than 100.000km and didnt change oil or did any service...so that may be the issue but still car is driving as it has 80 horsepower compared to 220 it should have...literally

I have never heard of this issue before. Theoretically, the car should go faster with an oil change due to the new oil having more lubricating properties than the old one (just theory).

Based on your description, I would recommend changing your fuel filter and air filter to see if power is restored.

If that does not work, I would get a compression test done.

I very highly doubt it would be the filter causing this. Even “high performance” oil filters, such as K&N, are only marketed to increase oil flow during high intensity applications I.e. racing (obviously at the trade off of oil filtration.

Anyone should feel free to chime in

Hope this helps

 

[Fu Manchu]

Fuel filter is a whole rear subframe out job to access the top of the fuel tank.

Very few VEs have an access panel under the rear seat.

 

[mikzmixify]

Hi guys
My 2007 Holden Omega VE problems seem to accumulate over time and here is the new one:

My mechanic changed the engine oil but unfortunately couldnt open oil filter assembly so couldnt change the oil filter... He treated it with ENGINE CLEAN product and then put new oil in. Engine idles kind of louder but not noticable too much.
What the problem is ,,,NOW engine has NO power ...its like driving a friggin diesel truck literally .... Confused with what the hell was happening I pushed it a bit harder on the road and it was LOUD as hell...and vibrating the seat like when one time before muffler broke off...

So I parked the car and started pushing throttle to hear how it sounds and to mu surprise i heard rattling sound( sounds like what those AMGs produce when they accelerate then take foot off the pedal...like farting sound) ...and that sound was coming from below drivers seat. It wasnt too cold also but when accelerating in park i saw white smoke coming from the exaust as well as some water dripping but only on left side exaust. Also there was kind of a smell (not burning smell but a smell, dont know how to describe it,,,not too strong but something was being heated up probably and producing it.)

Imagine how pissed off I am after spending $1200 on service (done wipers and errors reset etc) to get this piece of crap which I honestly dont feel is safe to drive. Mechanic is conviniently on holiday ATM and I cant wait 2 weeks to get my car checked out again nor can I afford it.

Any thoughts? What should I try to do or replace on my own? (Oil filter screw needs some techique in order to get it off...couldnt do in with long bar)

THANKS!

try running the car with an open radiator cap if theres a continuous bubbles in there you got blown head gasket

 

[stick3]

oil has turn to sludge after 15000k change intervals so i can just imagine what it would look like after 100.000ks it probaly be better to look for another engine after reading this thread which is one of many on here

Sludge fix

Jus purchased a sv6 VZ , only had it 1 week and now it's in pieces with sludge so big I would call crude. Hopefully pics upload, so anyone with ideas on fixing or cleaning it, beside new motor.

forums.justcommodores.com.au

 

[VS_Pete]

7500kms for me

 

[Just Damo]

Fuel filter is a whole rear subframe out job to access the top of the fuel tank.

Very few VEs have an access panel under the rear seat.

Hey Fu, I think I saw someone else here make there own. But is it possible to cut a hatch hole in the rear seats where some of the models have them? Ie. right rear seat