Great read it really pays to do most of that list personally CBF taking out the seat but most of it I use when down the plex.
I do have more to add.
Autos are generally accepted to be the go for drag racing that been said manuals have the advantage of both more rwhp from less parasitic loss and the ability to drop the clutch at higher RPM`s.
Autos when programmed correctly to shift at the peak RPM in PWR/power mode will always change better/faster/more effeciently than a casual drag racer with a manual.
LS1/6.0/LS3 etc....tips
1. take off the air con belt.
*great little free hp trick.
It takes 5 mins you need to take off the main serpentine belt first using a 15mm socket roll the auto tension er right and slip the belt on to the side of the socket.
Number one is the tensioner. take note when of this diagram.
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With the main belt off you can now remove the lower belt using the 15mm again on the aircon belt auto tensioner turning it right as with the last tensioner and remove the air con belt, now refit the main belt using the previous diagram.
General Tip
Open the bonnet after every run.
See those people, no they don`t have the bonnet open JUST to show off their nice clean (or dirty) bay, they are cooling the intake, yes its hot and so is are a lot of other components like the main charge wiring from the alt, that will help power when cooler, note oil temp will remain hot enough during runs.
Turn off all no essential electrical power as all this helps reduce the load on the alternator/battery and also the coils/spark benefit as result, so blower fan, stereo, headlights (use parkers at night meets as they only draw 5w) and anything else that you may have aftermarket etc it all will help.
Will update with more l8r...
