DRL dimmed with headlights on (How to Guide)

[stooge]

Sorry little outdated - im going through this now - when you connect the fuse tap cable, do you need to put a fuse on it? if so what resistance (size of fuse) on there?

the fuse tap should have 2 fuse slots, one for the fuse you are tapping into and the other for the line you are adding.
from memory i think i used a 10A fuse.
make sure you put the fuse tap in the right way, if you put it in the wrong way you will be running the drls through the fuse you are tapping into, use a multimeter to test which side the power rail is on and make sure that is the side for the power before the fuse on the fuse tap.

 

[DanDan1]

I fitted the same module as 3rspecB on my series 2 redline yesterday and it works all good WITHOUT the relay. I did bench test it using a 12V power supply before fitting it to the car and it did flicker, even wiring it through a relay, but I put this down to the supply voltage only being 12V. Once it was connected to a battery with good voltage, 13.8V +, there was no flickering...so I fitted it to the car, I done everything else pretty much the same as 3rspecB... only not having to fit the relay means you have to look pretty hard to notice anything different when you look under the bonnet.
I replaced the park lamps with some LED bulbs so the colour of the DRL and the parkers are the same, just need to do my low and high beem now as they look yellow in comparison.

Hi sorry so many years after the fact... do you recall since you didnt use the relay did you splice the white wire to the parkers instead?

 

[DanDan1]

Thanks Stooge. WELL DONE


I wired my DRLs the same way stooge did. It worked straight up.

If you want to use a fuse tap just like stooge did, you need to drill a 3/16 hole in the fuse box.


Removing the right-hand side headlight plug. There’s a red clip at the top of the plug. Use a medium size flat head screwdriver and push in between the red clip and plug.

I used loom tube from Jay car after heat-shrinking all connections & electrical taped the dimming harness.

https://www.jaycar.com.au/10mm-loom-tube-10-metres/p/HP1225



Also the Green and yellow wires are not needed and can be remove.

Relay is not required

sorry for the question many years later -
there is no mention of the existing cartridge fuse that comes with the controller (attached to the red wire) since we're connecting the fuse tap+fuse to it, do we need to cut the existing cartridge fuse out?

 

[stooge]

Hi sorry so many years after the fact... do you recall since you didnt use the relay did you splice the white wire to the parkers instead?

Yes.

The last time i did the mod i made this pdf, it has the part with the white wire referenced.

vf_drl.pdf

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

And yes you can remove the fuse on the controller because you are using a fuse tap which is adding a fuse to the same wire.

 

[DanDan1]

Yes.

The last time i did the mod i made this pdf, it has the part with the white wire referenced.

http://[URL]https://www.dropbox.com/s/hofbpwykifbrn66/vf_drl.pdf?dl=0

[/URL]

And yes you can remove the fuse on the controller because you are using a fuse tap which is adding a fuse to the same wire.

Yes! Thank you been following it... just stuck on whether or not to remove the existing cartridge fuse from the controller's red wire... before soldering onto the fuse tap...
Thanks for your help

 

[DanDan1]

Yes.

The last time i did the mod i made this pdf, it has the part with the white wire referenced.

http://[URL]https://www.dropbox.com/s/hofbpwykifbrn66/vf_drl.pdf?dl=0

[/URL]

And yes you can remove the fuse on the controller because you are using a fuse tap which is adding a fuse to the same wire.

followed all the steps exactly as described... (except spliced the short drl cable to the long... not the long to the short - should be the same thing)

Works... except the passenger side is significantly dimmer than the driver's side... constantly even when lights are switched on or off...

 

[stooge]

followed all the steps exactly as described... (except spliced the short drl cable to the long... not the long to the short - should be the same thing)

Works... except the passenger side is significantly dimmer than the driver's side... constantly even when lights are switched on or off...

just splice both into the same line and it should be fine.
if there is a difference in brightness check that the wiring is all good because it should be the same on both sides.

also make sure the engine is running when you are looking at it because the dimmers have a voltage sensing module that will produce unexpected results when the engine is off.