nabed4t
New Member
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2005
- Messages
- 147
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- Age
- 37
- Location
- Briagolong
- Members Ride
- 98 VT Commodore V6
Hey Guys,
It's been ages since I've posted on the JC forums but, I am again, in need of some help.
So, just to be clear my car audio/electronics ability is quite low, I had the sound system installed professionally about 7 years ago.
The issue at the moment is with my Earthquake 600w.4 amp. She powers 2x 6x9 parcel shelf Pioneer TS-A6961E 260w speakers and 2x 6" Earthquake door speakers (That's all I can tell you with out ripping the door trim off, I'm pretty sure they are about a max of 200w each) and my head unit is a Pioneer DEH-P5850MPH. I also have a Rockford Fosgate amp powering a RF sub, but they work perfectly.
For the last few months my Earthquake 600w.4 amp has been intermittently cutting out, I will turn the car on or to accessories and the sound system powers up, the components powered by the Earthquake amp work for about 1-2 seconds and then cut out. There doesn't seem to be any consistency with what might be causing it, it happens in the hot/cold, driving/not driving and occasionally it works fine.
On the amp itself are two windows, one is a gauge for voltage the other current. With the car on accessories the voltage gauge sits on a bit over 12v, the current gauge jumps to about 25A and then it cuts out but the voltage gauge stays static (I'm not sure how accurate these gauges are). I've used volt metre on both the power and remote cables, they are sitting on 11.8v The ground cable is good and in contact with bare metal and all the fuses are fine (the amp has 2x 20A fuses).
I'm unsure where to go from here and some hints would be great. I'm leaning towards the amp dying but wanted to try everything before buying a new one.
Please yell out if you need more info.
Thanks heaps,
Cheers,
Dan
Edit: just to add, I also still have the stock VT speakers in the two back doors, they continue to work fine when the other four (2x parcel shelf and 2x front door speakers) stop working, I assume that this means that the head unit is still working and it's the amp that is the problem.
It's been ages since I've posted on the JC forums but, I am again, in need of some help.
So, just to be clear my car audio/electronics ability is quite low, I had the sound system installed professionally about 7 years ago.
The issue at the moment is with my Earthquake 600w.4 amp. She powers 2x 6x9 parcel shelf Pioneer TS-A6961E 260w speakers and 2x 6" Earthquake door speakers (That's all I can tell you with out ripping the door trim off, I'm pretty sure they are about a max of 200w each) and my head unit is a Pioneer DEH-P5850MPH. I also have a Rockford Fosgate amp powering a RF sub, but they work perfectly.
For the last few months my Earthquake 600w.4 amp has been intermittently cutting out, I will turn the car on or to accessories and the sound system powers up, the components powered by the Earthquake amp work for about 1-2 seconds and then cut out. There doesn't seem to be any consistency with what might be causing it, it happens in the hot/cold, driving/not driving and occasionally it works fine.
On the amp itself are two windows, one is a gauge for voltage the other current. With the car on accessories the voltage gauge sits on a bit over 12v, the current gauge jumps to about 25A and then it cuts out but the voltage gauge stays static (I'm not sure how accurate these gauges are). I've used volt metre on both the power and remote cables, they are sitting on 11.8v The ground cable is good and in contact with bare metal and all the fuses are fine (the amp has 2x 20A fuses).
I'm unsure where to go from here and some hints would be great. I'm leaning towards the amp dying but wanted to try everything before buying a new one.
Please yell out if you need more info.
Thanks heaps,
Cheers,
Dan
Edit: just to add, I also still have the stock VT speakers in the two back doors, they continue to work fine when the other four (2x parcel shelf and 2x front door speakers) stop working, I assume that this means that the head unit is still working and it's the amp that is the problem.
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