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Discussion in 'VE Holden Commodore (2006 - 2013)' started by BenScott22, Mar 16, 2020.
Anyone know how to override the check engine and essentially just turn it off. VE SV6 Commodore.
By having it FIXED.
The longer you leave it on, the more damage that may be done.
Why would you even consider just somehow shutting that WARNING off?
Find out what it's for, could be a O2 sensor simple fix.
Unplug the battery, light turns off. Problem solved.
Could be 256 possible things.
push trip on steering wheel , mines been doing it for 53,000 k ,
The only way it can be cleared is with the appropriate diagnostic tool. This will also tell the operator what the code or codes are that generated the fault and illuminated the warning light.
Only a fool would ignore such information.
Or just buy your own diagnostic tool for 50 bucks on eBay and fix it yourself. The check engine light normally only comes on when a sensor is operating outside of its normal parameters. Buy yourself and OBD2 scan tool and check the codes. Replace said sensor that the scan tool tells you is cactus. Problem solved. Correctly.
Note that if it says catalyst threshold below efficiency then I would not bother replacing this (but I didn’t tell you that) unless you have to get a roadworthy every year as this won’t affect the engine operation, just the pollution that it puts out.
And before I get flamed I would say that any petrol engine without a cat wouldn’t be as bad as any Diesel engine whose particulates have been proven to cause cancer!
A fault code does not indicate a faulty sensor. It indicates a problem. Multiple things can be happening that create the parameters for a fault to be set.
Sensors should be tested to see.
It may well mean the sensor/s are doing the job it was designed to do.
In my experience having always worked on my own cars most of the time it indicates a faulty sensor or electrical component like ignition coils, spark plugs etc as these are the most likely components to fail in a car. The engine and metal components are normally quite durable and most problems with these parts would probably be noticed anyway without a diagnostic computer.
Sometimes there can be other mechanical issues going on but in my mind if the OBD2 tool tells you that the o2 sensor on bank one is outside of parameters (for example) my first port of call would be to replace the sensor for 80 bucks (provided it hasn’t been replaced recently) before spending a **** load of money for a mechanic to tell you what’s wrong (and probably just charge you 500 bucks to replace the o2 sensor with their rip-off parts prices).
If we just go changing sensors without tests you become a "Parts Swapper" which is the rort so much of the mechanical servicing industry leans on at most levels, and yet is trained to avoid as a trade. In a workshop those tests can be done using diagnostic tools and better testing devices of course.
It's often why so many come to a forum to seek answers because the mechanics just swap stuff and change nothing but their bank account balance.
We can do some simple tests at home on most of the sensors and those tests are found here on this forum for most of them.
Most tests simply require a multi meter (or a thermometer in some cases) and we can poke the sensor to see if it is doing its job or broken.
Factory workshop manuals for most vehicles are fairly easy to find on line now and they provide easy to follow processes for testing the sensor.
Yes. Unfortunately most mechanics are looking out for their own bank balance and not yours! This is one of the main reasons I always come back to doing my own servicing unless it’s something really complicated.
I would agree that the best (most correct) scenario is for you to do the proper tests to determine what’s is happening but the irony is that in a lot of cases your wallet will still be better off if you just swap everything out (without testing it) yourself using eBay sourced parts than getting a mechanic to replace just the broken part.
As a personal example of this my VE SV6 started misfiring on the way to work one day and I dropped the car in to the mechanic that is local to my work for them to have a look at it. They said there was multiple misfires logged but didn’t know exactly what was at fault out of the coil packs and plugs so I got them to replace the plugs hoping it might fix the problem (it didn’t) which cost me about 300 odd dollars from memory and they wanted over a thousand bucks to replace the coil packs as the coil packs were nearly 200 bucks each.
Needless to say I ended up replacing the coil packs myself as I could buy a full set of them from eBay for under 300 bucks for the set and I probably could have bought the plugs for around 100 bucks a set. So if I would have just left it until I got home and plugged my OBD2 tool into it it would have told me there was a misfire and i would have replaced all the coils and plugs for less then a third of the cost of getting a mechanic to do it.
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