jetspin_vn
JetSpin Racing Team
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2003
- Messages
- 1,430
- Reaction score
- 8
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- Age
- 39
- Location
- Mission Bay, Auckland, New Zealand
- Members Ride
- VN GTS
A while back it was suggested we post pictures of various components of our engines so that in technical posts, everyone had something to refer to. Below are some pictures taken of my VL RB20. Everything externally between the RB20 and 30 is the same, bar one thing - the 20 has no exhaust lambada (oxygen) sensor, as it was origionally designed for leaded fuel.
General Overview
Coolant System
Coolant Bleed Bolts
The VL is prone to airlocks in the cooling system. This is due to the way the engine and radiator sit. The highest point in the system occurs in the engine, not the radiator as it is in the skyline. Air locks can cause such problems as cracked heads - expensive. After every coolant change, be sure to loosen these bolts and fill untill air water comes from them.
Coolant Drain Bolt
Anyone who's tried simply removing the bottom radiator hose, just knows there must be more coolant in there somewhere!! After all, the system holds 10 litres, yet when you fill it sometimes it only takes 3 or 4, if that. Here's the answer. Remove this bolt, and almost all the remaining coolant will drain from it.
Thermostat Housing
Your thermostat lives here. When they get old, they can jam open, or even worse closed. When yours is getting old, replace it before it can crap out on you. Its easy to do, just remove the housing (3 bolts) and lift out the thermostat. Then insert the new thermostat (ensure the jiggle valve is at the top of the thermostat) and bolt on a new housing. (Old housings can get filled with crap as mine did, replacing will aid coolant flow) Use a good quality silicone sealant designed for automotive cooling systems.
Oil System
Oil Filter and Pressure Sender
These two are pretty obvious. The pressure sender unit pictured here is an aftermarket type for a POD gauge. However the standard unit is similar, with one wire connecting to it. It has a threaded bolt type fitting which screws into the engine.
Continued...
General Overview
Coolant System
Coolant Bleed Bolts
The VL is prone to airlocks in the cooling system. This is due to the way the engine and radiator sit. The highest point in the system occurs in the engine, not the radiator as it is in the skyline. Air locks can cause such problems as cracked heads - expensive. After every coolant change, be sure to loosen these bolts and fill untill air water comes from them.
Coolant Drain Bolt
Anyone who's tried simply removing the bottom radiator hose, just knows there must be more coolant in there somewhere!! After all, the system holds 10 litres, yet when you fill it sometimes it only takes 3 or 4, if that. Here's the answer. Remove this bolt, and almost all the remaining coolant will drain from it.
Thermostat Housing
Your thermostat lives here. When they get old, they can jam open, or even worse closed. When yours is getting old, replace it before it can crap out on you. Its easy to do, just remove the housing (3 bolts) and lift out the thermostat. Then insert the new thermostat (ensure the jiggle valve is at the top of the thermostat) and bolt on a new housing. (Old housings can get filled with crap as mine did, replacing will aid coolant flow) Use a good quality silicone sealant designed for automotive cooling systems.
Oil System
Oil Filter and Pressure Sender
These two are pretty obvious. The pressure sender unit pictured here is an aftermarket type for a POD gauge. However the standard unit is similar, with one wire connecting to it. It has a threaded bolt type fitting which screws into the engine.
Continued...
