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FIXED - VX Calais deadlocked but can drive

BOR15

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Hey Guys,

went to my car and i couldn't unlock it. I managed to get in with turning the key in the door clockwise a little harder than norman. I started the car and drove it home. When i got home i had a quick look and the fuse for the windows and central locking was blown so replaced it (first time for it to blow). I have the battery disconnected at the moment, i hope it clears any fault.

the only thing is that i locked the car with the passenger door open, when i closed the door it locked and all seemed good.

my key works, the battery is good and the car can be driven. the fuse was blown but i replaced it, now the windows work and i can lock and unlock the drivers door with the key.

when i use the key button the interior lights turn on for a second then turn off and the hazards flash once when the key is pressed and once again after the interior lights go out.

my problem is that i cant undeadlock my doors!!! ( cant lift the button on any doors)

any help would be great

Boris
 
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dirty hands

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.would like to know why the fuse blew

you mean the central locking isnt working on any of the doors

can you hear the door actuators click

wonder if there is a relay in this system .
 

BOR15

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i would also like yo know what caused the fuse to blow.

i don't hear any actuators, they don't even attempt to move.

i will be looking into it when i can get a wiring diagram.

any ideas would be welcome

Boris
 

kais3r

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Start by swapping out any relays related to the central locking with identical ones from other systems if you can find any the same, door locking is relay controlled.
You can look for relays under driver dash and engine bay fuse box.
 

BOR15

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Hey kais3r,

i have got myself a scanner that can actuate functions in the BCM ... .will be looking for relays as i can hear a click when i tell the doors to lock and unlock but nothing else.

Will report anything i find

Boris
 

BOR15

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Got it sorted.

While i was hunting around looking for the problem, i wanted to remove the BCM 418 so i can have a quick look at it. While trying to dislodge it from its mounts i could hear a clicking. what i thought was a broken wire turned out to be the A plug loose. so i pulled it out and then found the B plug also loose :/ ...

Decided to have a look in the BCM but i couldn't see anything wrong. I reconnected it without its cover and started playing with the lock and unlock. It seemed that all the relays were working, but still no actuation at the doors. Funny thing happened when i plugged the A and B in firmly. Suddenly my drivers door switch started to work and the interior light turned on. I thought that the BCM was damaged because of this not working. Also, low and behold, my auto off and auto lights now also work :)

Back to the central locking. I got the drivers actuator out and discovered that i had the open and close signals at the connector, this was a bonus. now while stuffing with the actuator, i couldn't get a reading on the motor. SO this morning i jumped to Jaycar and got 12v DC motor to solder it in its place. Plugged it back in and the motor started to spin both ways depending on if i was opening and closing. This gave me hope that the BCM was good, but it now gave me a feeling of dread because of the passenger and rear doors.

What i have speculated is that because of the loose plugs, when i locked the doors with the key, the signal to lock and then deadlock wasn't cut to the motors. Then bottomed out and kept powering till they burnt open but one may have shorted and blown the window/central locking fuze.

SO off to pick and payless in blacktown where the nice guys pointed me to the commodores. Instead of 30 a lock they gave it to me for 25 because i had taken all for from the one car. Because i still had the door trim off the drivers i tested them all while in the car park, all were 100%. So off home i go to tackle the really hard part.

Im not going to bore you with the drivers door because it is simple because you can open it. As i have read on this site, to get access to a deadlocked door, you need to remove the insert from the door to get access to the mechanism. Well yes i had to. I had to gingerly with a bit of force prise the top so that i could break the 5 or 6 clips that hold it in place. Then prise the 2 clips off the bottom and then i could remove the insert. The passenger door now needs a big hole cut in it so that you can access the actuator. With this door you will need to cut the top of the actuator so that you can release the door. Then open, remove door trim and do your swap.

The rear doors are started much the same to remove the insert, but you don't need to cut anything away as there is a hole big enough to work with. Now with the rear latch you can unclip the rod to the actuator and then the door will open. Now remove the trims and do your swap out.

I have finished the central locking but the trims i will leave for tomorrow.

I need to thank my mechanic for supplying me a hanatech scanner that i was able to read my codes and activate the central locking from it.

Now to stop and have some lunch, its 1750, then shower and F1 ....

Boris
 

kais3r

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What a pain hey, glad you got it sorted though, long time without a bite, well enjoy the race, will be watching it too.
 
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