Fuel Pump Working, But won't start

[Deutscher]

Ok, Just did the Fault Code test....
I got code 12 ......Code 12 - System Pass (OK)
Stupid car... it's a liar!! If everything was ok, I wouldn't of tried it!

Edit: I didn't need to disconnect the negative from the battery did I? (don't wanna cause will reset my sound system)

 

[pedrotski]

check your afm. in the v8 it is just above the air box. i dunno where it is in the v6. i had the same thing happen to my stato. i just cleaned the connections, and she runs fine now. originally i thought it was the fuel pump as it was after a filled up on an empty tank (flash cooled the pump).

 

[moff_man]

I'm with delcowizzid and VrWagz1; it sounds most like a BCM (Body Control Module)/security system issue.

Unless the LPG system is a factory one, it won't be disabled by the BCM. (A factory system can be ID'd by looking for a ~30X30X15mm box attached to the lock off solenoid under the inspection cover on the LPG tank).

Because the car runs on LPG and starts with fuel added into the intake manifold, the ignition system is OK. The CAS sensor and the DFI (Direct Fire Ignition) module must be working. (No CAS = no fuel injector pulse and no spark, and no run on LPG or the added fuel; no DFI = no spark and no run on LPG or the added fuel).

The theft deterrent system (in the BCM) prevents the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) from working, and therefore there will be no injector pulse, but the ignition system operates separately until the PCM provides its input.

There will still be spark through the DFI, fixed at 10 degrees BTDC (Before Top Dead Centre, TDC = with the piston at the top of the cylinder on the compression stroke), but no fuel added or ignition timing control without the PCM.

To check for injector pulse, pull one or more of the injector plugs off and with ignition on check that there is power to one of the two wires with a test light or voltmeter. Then check that the power wire is earthed through the other wire when the engine is cranked over. Only use a test light that draws less than 300mA when connected to 12.6V.

The fuel pump will operate for a couple of seconds when the ignition is first switched on but not after that without the PCM active, so that sounds OK.

If you have another spare key and remote, try that as a check of the key/remote operation.

The contacts around the ignition switch may not be connecting properly with the key.

If it's not the BCM, maybe look at the fuel changeover switch.

Check for fault codes too - see the 'How To' section.

yes but i have had one car that all that didnt make sence on. it cranked but no start it also had spark and lots of it, it also had no injection pulses, tested with a noid light, turned out to be a dfi module. this was on a vs super charged statesman.

the cas sends the info it recieves to the dfi module than to the ecm if one of thoes links are broken then there will be no go and depending on which circut is foulty depends on which bit isnt goin to work

dont get me wrong im not trying to dis what you have said but im just trying to put down what i have experanced

 

[Deutscher]

Well guys, I'm a little happier. I can start my car just on gas..... no body every told me that. You just have to hold the petrol/gas switch in for 5 seconds or so and it'll just run on gas.... meh ... so I'm taking it down to the guy who did my gas conversion and he'll have a look at whats happening. Maybe he can shed some light. If he doesn't know.. i'll just take it to a mechanic

 

[st3r3otyp3]

how old is the fuel??? did you go away for ages?? go to a petrol station on gas and put some fresh petrol in if its say months old (don`t know how long fuel lasts, though its some thing to do with the fumes)... worth a shot.

 

[Deutscher]

Well guys, I really appreciated all the inputs.
I have went to the guy who did my gas conversion. He checked everything out, checked the DFI, Injector Connections, Injectors themselves, Fuses, Computers, Coils, Sparks, etc. He was stumped... then a mechanic from next door came over and had a look.. he said it's the injectors... the injectors are pulsing (he put a light tester thing on it) but very dimly .. not how it should. ... so he started the car on gas reved it to like 4000rpms then changed it over to fuel... it was very rough but did run on fuel ... just had to keep the rpms over 3000... so he said the injectors a clogged and need to be cleaned etc ...

Anyone I asked him how much it would cost to clean the injectors and he quoted me ~$450. Just wondering is that a good price or should I look around? Also, I remember at supercheap you could buy injector cleaner ... like you squirt into engine or fuel or something... anyone know if it works or if it could work on my injectors? they are pretty clogged by the looks of it. Or how hard is it to clean injectors yourself? or should I just pay mechanic to do it?

 

[moff_man]

not too shure about your area but thats roughly 50 bucks each to clean and 150 bucks labour to r&r them (remove and replace) i would shop around first before you go ahead with it, even if its just to see what other shops will charge.