What model are you looking at? For 20k you can get a real nice VX. If you wanted you could get a VT series 1 or 2 then have a heap of change for some mods.
Do a YT snout upgrade and possibly even one of thier intercooler upgrade.
I definatly recommend an exhaust! If you aren't going to mod too much go a dual 2.25" but if you plan on doing some rat bagging, putting big boost upgrade and poissibly a cooler, then go the dual 2.5".
I'd also recommend a set of pacemakers.
Either way, you can get a stock L67 later model with real low kms. Or get an earlier model and do a heap of mods. Then you'd be pleasing the missus and have much better performance than a stock 8.
As for problems,
The VT series 1s (the model I own) have a few probs, like the check straps on the front drivers door can come loose and crack the door pillar.
globes blowing on the climate control.
Leather shrinking and braking stitching, also coming out of plastic fixtures.
The motor stock can take some abuse, actually a hell of a lot of abuse! So if it has had regular maintinance then it should be fine given there are no irregular sounds when driving.
The Sway bar links are weak, the washers slip over thier retaining bolts and make a horrible clunking sound. This is easily rectified with a Whiteline link kit.
The diffs in the super 6s are the BW 80. If it was optioned with a LSD it will probably still spin one wheel. They are weak as piss from the factory. They need to be shimmed up to tesion the springs in them and even then need to be treated with care for it to last. The cwon and pinion however are very strong.
The tailshafts in the S1 VT have proper uni joints and are also very strong. The later VXs have rubber joints and to me look weak. They are there for better driveline smoothness as far as I know.
The gearboxes are very strong but could do with a shift kit to liven them up as they do have a sloppy shift.
The torque converter is a factory set 2600rpm. This is why they seem very doughy when moving it slowly, compared to the ecotecs 1800 (I think) they feel very snappy when given a quick jab of the pedal. The super 6 barely moves. But using the handbrake you can stall the super 6 converter to 3k. With a cooler and an exhaust and boost upgrade it makes for extremely quick or smokey launches pending traction... LOL
Brakes are good and are no different from mdel to model to my knowledge.
In the VXs there has been problems with the ABS modules so be wary of that.
One big thing to look for is there are two differnt racks that at this moment are unknown to be model specific. There are racks with black gear housings and silver housings. The main body of the rack is silver on both, but the part just below the orange rubber cover is either black or silver. If it is black don't worry as these are fine. The silver ones however have different metal lines and sit above the rack rather than infront of it. When the engine mounts collapse the sump sits on the pipe and rubs through it causeing a major leak. The black ones can have the sump rubbing on the cross member and go no where near the pipe.
It's not a major worry if you regularly check your mounts and clearances. But if I were choosing between two cars this would be a major deciding factor for me. I think they were introduced from VX onwards, but not 100% on that.
The VTs do have bad rear camber issues and can be rectified and it's recommended that this be done. Make sure the alignment allows for some slack in the rear axles. This is hard to explain without actually being shown.
Obviously look out for accident damage. The rear has a easy tell tale. If the taillights stick out a bit at the front edge on the side then it's almost certain it's been nudged at some point. It doesn't take much to do it, but if you see the tail light misalignment then make sure you thoroughly check the beaver for rust or cracks in the paint/sealer.
They are pretty good on rust, but check windscreens for rust a if the screen has been replaced alot of the time it can mean the windscreen guy could have scratched the paint. This is one of the MAIN causes for rust around the windscreens these days.
Check for rattles in the doors. Usually means the plastic sliders have broken. Very common!
That's about it for know, i'm pretty tired so the noggin aint workin as well as it should.
Best of luck finding the right car!!!
Tark
