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Holden VS Wont Start

hunter94

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Hi,
about a day ago i noticed the lock buttons on the remote were not working i didn't think to much of it at the time until i tried to start the car. Now the car will not start unless i wait the 45 minuets to bypass the immobilizer as before hand i would have to press unlock then start the car. have got the key checked and all is well have tried resetting the computer by disconnecting the battery and am not sure what else would be causing this. Any help would be appreciated as i really need the car for work
Thanks Dan
 

K-BAGZ

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Flat key battery by the sounds of it.
 

hunter94

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the key is not even 6 months old :S had it checked at mister minit and showed up all good and also the spare will not work as well
 

Pollushon

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Flat key battery by the sounds of it.
I've done a lot of research into the VS key. Battery shouldn't affect anything, it operates the active circuit, but without battery power the passive circuit will work correctly as it's powered by the car.

Key manually unlocks door, key goes in ignition, into 'On' position, the car battery powers the key to run the passive circuit (touch-point positive, key-blade earth), cipher complete, immobiliser disarmed, LED goes off, car starts.

If you use the above method hunter I'm guessing it doesn't work? If so that leaves an ignition barrel circuitry issue or the BCM/ECU. Unlikely you have two keys with bad circuits, as the key itself can be an issue. If it worked prior to the issue, I doubt reprogramming will help.
 

K-BAGZ

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Ok then. Your two keys won't unlock or start only until you override the immoboliser.

I'm thinking more along the lines key to BCM issues. Maybe get one key reprogrammed again correctly.
 

K-BAGZ

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I've done a lot of research into the VS key. Battery shouldn't affect anything, it operates the active circuit, but without battery power the passive circuit will work correctly as it's powered by the car.

Key manually unlocks door, key goes in ignition, into 'On' position, the car battery powers the key to run the passive circuit (touch-point positive, key-blade earth), cipher complete, immobiliser disarmed, LED goes off, car starts.

If you use the above method hunter I'm guessing it doesn't work? If so that leaves an ignition barrel circuitry issue or the BCM/ECU. Unlikely you have two keys with bad circuits, as the key itself can be an issue. If it worked prior to the issue, I doubt reprogramming will help.
Wierd you say that Pollushon, because I don't use the above method because I had key issues along time ago and my case cracked broke the probe to the circuit board. I changed the battery and has worked ever since.

My key circuit board neither has the ignition ring probe or an earth to the key head. I can literally stand 5m away from the car, press the key button and successfully turn the immoboliser off.
 

hunter94

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i know just prior to when the key stopped working the fuel pump fuse was removed for a fuel filter change and have been told sometimes when the car does not recognize the key to remove the fuel pump fuse for 10 seconds to reset a part of the computer so am wondering if that might have anything to do with it?
 

Pollushon

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Wierd you say that Pollushon, because I don't use the above method because I had key issues along time ago and my case cracked broke the probe to the circuit board. I changed the battery and has worked ever since.

My key circuit board neither has the ignition ring probe or an earth to the key head. I can literally stand 5m away from the car, press the key button and successfully turn the immoboliser off.
Yea man, that's spot on to how it should work. The only thing the two circuits share is the TPM. I used the latter method (manual key) for years before I got jack of it and cracked the key open, replaced the supposedly un-replaceable battery (keep meaning to post the how to).

So when you have battery, the transponder sends it's part of the cipher OTA to the BCM/ECU, the doors unlock and the immobiliser disables for 30 seconds. If say you're chatting to a mate on your way out, unlock and 30 seconds pass, the immobiliser becomes engaged and the LED fires back up. Open door, insert key, turn to 'On' and the passive circuit completes another cipher, away you go. Or you can just hit unlock again (note the interior light comes on and the immobiliser disengages again for 30 more seconds).

So in theory if you used the key with the broken probe to unlock manually and inserted the key, it shouldn't start unless you hit the unlock button. During the 30 second deactivation you can use a screwdriver or hot-wire to start it if you want :)
 
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