How To: Change Springs/Shock

[savage1987]

Dunno mate, never done an IRS one so I'm no help whatsoever here

 

[azkwazere]

Right, well, i've had both my struts apart and back together over 4 times over the last week so i thought i'd share my experience.

Tie Rods-

Not hard, Just tricky. There is a certian sweet spot which will disengage the joint. The key is a bash mallet and a fairly heavy one at that. dont use a claw hammer as it wont provide enough percussion to free the joint. You need to hit it on the "you" side of the knuckle, as in, the corner that faces you. I tend to stand with my back to the car and swing backwards with one faily heavy stroke to the side of the nuckle.

You dont need to hit the nut or thread. Youll only cause damage. As luke said, get a bigger hammer with more momentum to release it. Light taps just dont cut the job, it is a serious thumb with a decent mallet.

Ball Joint-

Easy, just drop the lower control arm (Z-bar, Radius Rod etc) I do it in this order:

1. Remove Tie Rod end
2. Undo Sway bar link pin
3. Undo forward radius rod bush retainer nut (22mm from mem)
4. Undo (but dont fully remove) ball joint nut
5. Undo the control arm pivot bolt (19mm)
6. This takes a tiny bit of effort but free the control arm from the pivot and then strike the strut tower on the lower foundation, "the thick bit", give it a few taps either side, fairly hard, even a few light taps on the flanged runners and the bottom in a downward motion and it will come free.
7. fully remove the ball join nut and then free the control arm. The forward radius rod end is setup as follows:

{Nut} |washer|[bush]|Kframe|[Bush]*Sheath*|Washer|

The 2 Bushes fit into each other and the sheath is inside them.

8. From here i jack the strut up slightly to take the weight and then remove the 3 nuts(13mm) from the engine bay. Lower the strut on the jack and you all done!

Piston Nut -

Sorry guys, rattle gun got mine off each time no worries. You can use a set of vice grips but make sure you place some rubber or thick material in between the jaws. The rubber dust boot does a great job of protecting the insert.

Glad Packing Nut (big hexagonal nut which holds shock down)-

I found that a pipe wrench was best for this. It takes like a 400mm shifter+ to get it without one so if you dont have one handy, use a pipe wrench!. It is VITAL! to ensure you put some locktight (262) on the thread other wise it rattles loose (its not nylon coated unlike the piston nut) and the insert becomes free. Then! it eventaully cracks the caseing on the shock and its f-u-c-k-e-d! Do up and undo with the pipe wrech and you'll have no dramas!

Notes + Important(s):

1. Original shocks are "wet type", unless replacing with OEM brand, the strut should be dry. Make sure you remove all fluid and then dry before putting in gas inserts. I found using a can of degreaser, get as much as you can out by pouring, then!, blow out with compressor... then! use a rag and stick like an old school muzzle gun, back the strut down with the rag until dry (dont be too anal about it)

2. As i said before, locktight the glad packing nut with 262(High Strength).. this is key!

3. Re-grease the radius rod bushes and pivot bolts.

4. Ensure all is torqued properly:

3x13mm Suppport Nuts in engine bay: ~16nm's
Forward radius rod nut: ~140nm's
Tie rod end castella nut: ~90nms
Radius rod pivot bolt: ~110nm's
Brake caliper mounting bolts: ~90nm's

*may want to double check those numbers ^^*

5. Make sure the bearing plate is on the right way! lol... easy to stuff up.

thats it i think!

aZk.

 

[Arrowroot]

Great thread, wandering though as a firend of mine is going to change thier strut in the front of there VU SS ute, it has been lowered more then FE2, so does he have to buy lowered struts or will standard be ok ?

 

[VrWagz1]

just see if they sit in ok. If they dont reach end to end then you need shorter shocks. But FE2 mostly use standard shocks.

 

[savage1987]

Don't FE2 have normal shocks?

Arrowroot, if your mate doesn't care about handling too much then just chuck some standard ones in the front and it'll be fine til they chew out, depending how low it is as to how long that will take. Otherwise, some better quality shorter shocks are the go

 

[sketchy_89]

sick...helped me lower my vn calais!....looks sick now

 

[King_berald]

hey guys...

done all the hard work....
but wen i pulled out the old shock...it was covered in oil...
is it neccissary to oil up the new one??
also what kind of oil would it be??

 

[sawychri06]

why ar the pics not working ??? ohhhh the pain

 

[bandidoben]

maybe cause this post is years old...

what do you need help with?

 

[sawychri06]

haha i was just hopeing 4 some pics so i can get a visual of what to do
i dont know if you can help with that ??
cheers