How to properly replace the rear cradle on VX SS II

[Bush mechanic]

When I first bought this car, I would notice a some movement in the rear end while going through s bends at speed. It felt lose in the back end so I took it to the mechanic and he discovered that the whole rear cradle had been changed before.

Whoever fitted it used smaller cheap Chinese aftermarket bolts. This caused the cradle bolt holes to become elongated due to the constant friction while accelerating and cornering.

He told me the only thing to do is to replace the whole cradle and use genuine bolts. After buying one from a wrecker called "Allfordgm" in Greenacre Sydney and taking it to the mechanic . It turned out to be the wrong one because it didn't have some arms "I think they were camber arms or something".

When I took it back he wouldn't refund me, he said I can trade it for something else but he doesn't give cash back. I did tell him it was a November 2002 VX SS when I bought it and that he gave me the wrong one, but he just refused to listen. I even asked him to make sure it's the right one when I bought it and he said they're all the same, so he ripped me off $280 by giving me a Kenwood head unit in exchange.

I then went to Commwreck in Condell Park Sydney and the nice lady knew right away that the later VX had those extra arms and she only charged me $150 for the whole cradle minus the diff.

After the mechanic fitted the cradle it was spot on until my wife was run off the road by an idiot and she hit a gutter with the left wheel so I went back to Commwerck and bought a left control arm and had to use a big pinch bar to force it in as it wasn't lining up to the cradle mount.

I thought that I fixed it but when I got a wheel alignment the left rear wheel was still 3 degrees out at full adjustment so the tyre started wearing quickly on the inside and the bearing developed a clucking noise which has been getting worse everyday.

The mechanic charged hundreds to fit the last one so I'm gonna to try and do it myself this time because I've run out of money.

Is it a matter of dropping the exhaust and unbolting the cradle, tailshaft, diff, brake lines and fitting the new one on and bleeding the brakes or is there more to it.

 

[Immortality]

There is a proper jig to locate the rear subframe onto the chassis via a number of holes in each. Without the subframe your best bet would to workout where these jig locating holes are and carefully measure between these (assuming it's all square even between these locating holes).

 

[EYY]

There is a proper jig to locate the rear subframe onto the chassis via a number of holes in each. Without the subframe your best bet would to workout where these jig locating holes are and carefully measure between these (assuming it's all square even between these locating holes).

Providing it’s the rear end with toe adjustment, surely a wheel alignment would get it sorted close enough?

With the amount of body flex these things have, coupled with any damage from previous accidents etc surely the alignment isn’t that critical? How much room for movement is there?

I haven’t removed a complete subframe myself so haven’t seen how they’re located. I’ve driven a couple of cars that don’t have original subframes (my vx being one of them) and they certainly wouldn’t have been aligned. Drives perfectly and no tyre wear issues that I’m able to notice.

 

[Immortality]

A fair bit I think. There is enough room on the rear diff mount to move the whole assembly about 10mm and I believe a fair amount of scope on the front ones as well but then as you say, as long as it's close you should be able to make it up with a decent wheel alignment. I know our subframe is out on the VX (passenger side) but the wheel alignment still seems ok and it doesn't scrub tyres but I'm OCD and because I know it's out it bothers me

I'm probably gonna make up a set of pins to fit in the locating holes and use some magnets to hold them in place to use for measuring points.

 

[vc commodore]

Providing it’s the rear end with toe adjustment, surely a wheel alignment would get it sorted close enough?

.

Providing the OP has his camber terminology correct, they only have toe adjustment, not camber adjustment.

3 degrees of camber is a crud load, which explains his accelerated inner edge wear....

It wouldn't surprise me if the stub axle is bent, considering he is now experiencing noises in the back end.....So I'd be looking at replacing that and take it from there

 

[NeddyBear]

Is this the cradle you speak of and if so I find it hard to believe any bolt other than the correct size could be used to hold into place.
The reason being they torque down to just over 100 thingys.
Getting the front bolts back into place isn't fun so maybe that jig thing that's been mentioned would be a good idea (does anyone have a picture of the jig) and as for purchasing original bolts I think not.
When I bought my 2 original Holden bolts I was told these are the last 2 new old original Holden stock in Australia but black hex headed grade 8 bolts to suit are available at any nut and bolt supplier.

 

[VT2Commie]

Pic of the jig required to align the rear crossmember to the body of VT-VZ commodore vehicles.
Almost all Holden dealers have this Special tool. Exhaust is required to be removed to fit tool before tightening crossmember bolts.

 

[Bush mechanic]

Providing the OP has his camber terminology correct, they only have toe adjustment, not camber adjustment.

3 degrees of camber is a crud load, which explains his accelerated inner edge wear....

It wouldn't surprise me if the stub axle is bent, considering he is now experiencing noises in the back end.....So I'd be looking at replacing that and take it from there

I'm finally in the process of changing the whole rear cradle, I can see why my mechanic wanted $500 to do the job.
Had lots of fun cracking all the bolts to remove the old cradle, the mechanic who fitted the old one must have selected the highest torque setting on his rattle gun.
I bolted up the new one after a lot of stuffing around and now I can't get the rear rubber coupling (doughnut) onto the diff flange. So it looks like I have to pull the whole tail shaft off, I undone the center bearing and started pulling it out of the (manual box) but it seems to be stuck. I can't figure out why the slip yoke jammed while half way out.
I'm going to use a sledge hammer to force it out but I'm worried about damaging the shaft and couplings. I can't get to the gearbox area cause all of my jacks and stands are holding the arse end up and I'm claustrophobic so I can't drag myself close enough to see why it's stuck.

 

[_R_J_K_]

the mechanic who fitted the old one must have selected the highest torque setting on his rattle gun..

I recently swapped an entire VE cradle. Factory manual specified 200nm for these bolts with thread locker, reaally don't wont them coming out.

 

[Immortality]

A rattle gun isn't a torque wrench...