I wanna de-stroke a 3.8

[Dr Goggles]

Aluminium

Just found a shot from back when we were putting the bodywork together in this shot you can see the Canberra wing tank which is the bulk of the body and on top is the F86 Sabre tank which has been cut lengthwise and had the louvers punched in it, in the shot i'm using a mig to stitch the two parts together

And yeah, in the background my old PAN 666 EH panelvan....

 

[Dr Goggles]

and here's a similar angle from 09....that's the Reverend, the Colonel and me from L to R

That scoop is the very tip of the Sabre tank, cut from the bit we didn't use.... no, Holley don't sell them.

And no, you can't buy pyjamas like mine, that's a nomex fire suit and to be honest with the glare from the salt ( worse than snow) and the heat that's one of the most comfortable things to wear out there....

 

[Dr Goggles]

Finger in frame

Oi, any suggestions on what we should use for an oil pressure switch?......also interested in suggestions about the relief valve...

gimme


This, just in from the colonel our engine guy and all-round fix-it man...that's a nice shot he's got of his finger tip.......

So today was cam dialing day.
We're running 361 lift and 300° duration, so 0.5616 with a 1.6 rocker ratio
It's funny that in a country that's been metric for so long, cam lift is still in thou.

This is the cam grind that was used in a class of racing they called formula holden
It's a bit bigger than last year and will require the use of first gear
The motor has a crank, a cam and one piston with no rings on it, making it easier to turn
I'm aiming for 105.5° on the inlet and 108.5° on the exhaust
Next I will pop a head on and see how close the valves go to the pistons
and how close the valve springs go to binding
I usually use the traditional plasticine method for checking piston to valve clearances, and this year I also have a fancy camera
for looking in the spark plug hole

 

[delcowizzid]

i hope you have short gaps in your gear spacing those formula holdens sound like F1 cars the gears are such close ratio to keep it up on the cam idle at 1600-1800 rpm

 

[Dr Goggles]

i hope you have short gaps in your gear spacing those formula holdens sound like F1 cars the gears are such close ratio to keep it up on the cam idle at 1600-1800 rpm

Sadly no, not a lot we can do about that other than shift high and stay in it. For the first time we'll be using first gear.....we've just dawdled off in second the last two years because having a two stick shift it's easier and safer to have first locked out. I just built a spring load that allows you to select first , then when you shift to second the lockout stops the stick in neutral on the way back.this cam won't like the dawdle , I'm thinking there might be some traction issues off the line...no suspension is going to make that tedious as the car won't "step out" the way a normal car does.....the rear won't wind up, it won't steer from the rear....spinning them off the line will be more like sitting on wet grass........I can't say I'm as confident as I have been in the past , there's a lot of unknowns with this motor.....major one being "will it pull".

I suspect we'll be coming home with sauteed clutch

 

[Dr Goggles]

Just got word that the heads are bolted up, rockers are on and the one piece Manley rods we used last year are spot on...the motor has good clearance( gonna do a camera check soon to see how much).....Sourced a set of OEM flywheel bolts.....

Starting to get excited with it all again......we leave for the salt in 17 days...........

Actually when I say "bolted up" I mean down, the Colonel called on Sunday and said he'd broken a head bolt in the block so we got a set of ARP head studs .....

 

[Immortality]

.....Sourced a set of OEM flywheel bolts....
so we got a set of ARP head studs ......

yuk, oem bolts are torque to yield. use once and throw em away. if your still using a s1 crank the flywheel bolts are the same as the 350chev bolts. ARP stock em real cheap for a set of 6 and they are re-usable :thumbsup:

where did you manage to find a set of ARP Buick head studs so quickly?

 

[Dr Goggles]

yuk, oem bolts are torque to yield. use once and throw em away. if your still using a s1 crank the flywheel bolts are the same as the 350chev bolts. ARP stock em real cheap for a set of 6 and they are re-usable :thumbsup:

where did you manage to find a set of ARP Buick head studs so quickly?

Ah, bummer, I thought that was only the eight bolt sets....our first year out we had an 8 bolt and I bought a flywheel from CRS , I swear one of the bolts lost it head at about 15ft/lbs......

Dunno where he nailed the stud set it was $111.....which kind of makes a mockery of paying 8 BUCKS EACH !!! for the flywheel bolts.....The Colonel has a bunch of 350's ...strange he hadn't sussed that one .Thanks, once again for the tip Bart.

 

[Dr Goggles]

Turns out the head stud kit came from VPW mail-order and there is another set in stock.

ARP flywheel 7/16 set $21.40
OEM Flywheel TTY set $48.50+ GST

I owe you a beer Bart.

 

[Dr Goggles]

it's all in one piece, dyno in Shep Tuesday.....you busy Soop? come over for a squiz......