Ignition barrel in Ve locking as i turn key

[Boschy7099]

I'm trying to work out best option to fix problem. I can purchase new barrel with key just wondering programming side of things. I snapped key off about 6 months ago got key out got new one cut and all fixed now the barrel is starting to jam again. I can start car by jiggling key in barrel but am getting conflicting information from auto elec and locksmith

 

[krusing]

Quick fix,
Give it {barrel) a quick spray with WD40 Lithium grease.

 

[Fu Manchu]

You can replace the barrel independently to the key etc.

You just repin the barrel to suit your key. Hopefully you still have the old barrel. No need to replace the key assembly or reprogram. If you don’t want to repin the barrel, just swap the new key blade into the key you have.

 

[shane_3800]

As Fu said, you can just add new sliders into the lock, no need for changing any key fobs and programming ect.

 

[Marras]

Quick fix,
Give it {barrel) a quick spray with WD40 Lithium grease.

I highly advise against putting grease in a key barrel. The grease will not allow the parts inside the barrel to function properly.

 

[Fu Manchu]

I highly advise against putting grease in a key barrel. The grease will not allow the parts inside the barrel to function properly.

I worked with a locksmith a very long time ago. He always said to avoid WD40 and greases as well. He was a bit of a fan of graphite powder but said the Selleys Ezy glide or silicone based lubricants (new to the market back in the day) won’t have dirt stick to it and cause wear. Of course that was 20 plus years ago and those products might not even be recommended any more in the locksmith trade?

When I did the barrel in my ute, I really enjoyed learning to repin it. Was hard as far as going slow and thinking as I went, but was a good result and I gained a new skill.

 

[shane_3800]

I worked with a locksmith a very long time ago. He always said to avoid WD40 and greases as well. He was a bit of a fan of graphite powder but said the Selleys Ezy glide or silicone based lubricants (new to the market back in the day) won’t have dirt stick to it and cause wear. Of course that was 20 plus years ago and those products might not even be recommended any more in the locksmith trade?

When I did the barrel in my ute, I really enjoyed learning to repin it. Was hard as far as going slow and thinking as I went, but was a good result and I gained a new skill.

You just give a new lock a squirt of silicone spray.
It disappears quickly, the sliders are coated and have enough slip to not need lube.

 

[Marras]

I worked with a locksmith a very long time ago. He always said to avoid WD40 and greases as well. He was a bit of a fan of graphite powder but said the Selleys Ezy glide or silicone based lubricants (new to the market back in the day) won’t have dirt stick to it and cause wear. Of course that was 20 plus years ago and those products might not even be recommended any more in the locksmith trade?

When I did the barrel in my ute, I really enjoyed learning to repin it. Was hard as far as going slow and thinking as I went, but was a good result and I gained a new skill.

Graphite powder is really good if there is absolutely no chance of any moisture being present. If the graphite powder gets any moisture or other lubricants mixing it actually turns the graphite powder into a grinding paste and destroys everything.
I just tell people to avoid graphite powder all together as you can never rule out moisture getting anywhere.
I found the best thing to use is Inox.

 

[Marras]

You just give a new lock a squirt of silicone spray.
It disappears quickly, the sliders are coated and have enough slip to not need lube.

If the lock is new don’t touch it.
If the lock is old, remove the barrel clean with brake cleaner and make sure there is no grit left from dust and dirt from general usage. Once fully clean a little Inox (no grease in the barrel where the key is inserted) grease is sometimes used by the manufacturer on the external parts of the cylinder which the barrel is housed in. This is where Inox is really good as over a long time grease actually gets sticky and gums up.

 

[Fu Manchu]

If found the thread I did on it.
https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/vn-vz-ignition-repair.280251/

Reading through it, I also used lithium grease by the look. I might edit that to add in better alternatives so others can do it better.

Of note is that there was grease in it when I removed it.

I’m guessing here @Marras, but heavy lubricants are “ok” on the mechanical parts? On the critical pins and small movement bits inox or some sort of dry lubricant should be used? Or is it better to keep greases out of the assembly all together and just use dry lube Inox on everything?


*Of note: That link is still relative to the VE as it is still almost identical to models previous.