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Ignition switch no longer triggering starter relay - what's broken?

synoptica

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Hey guys,

Missus' VS ignition switch won't trigger the starter relay anymore... she got stranded at work last night. By the time I got out there to get her going the RACV dude had already done the work for me, so we got it home and I installed a mini pushbutton in paralell with the switch to get it going again. (Pushbutton start is cool! Easy 15-20kw gain right there) :p

The key still goes the full travel in the lock but there's no spring-action where the starter would normally kick in, and it just doesn't trigger.

Seeing as it's pretty well looked after I'm inclined to believe it's one of those things that fail over time and I'm hoping that it's relatively common so people can tell me what I actually need to replace - is it going to be an easy job with just the switch, or will I need to replace the entire assembly?

Cheers,
- Chris.
 

semi

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contacts in the ignition barrel is my guess. Might have to get a new one
 

hako

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It's not uncommon for the barrel or switch to fail - don't leave it too long as eventually you can end up with the key seized in the barrel. I'm not sure but I think you can just replace the switch bit and use the old key barrel if its still OK though if the car is high mileage the tumblers etc may be very sloppy.
 

Clacker

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On my car, the metal that connected the barrell to the switch at the back snapped.

I bought the barrell for about $60 from memory and just swapped over the tumblers. The blanks that came with it needed to be cut so used my original ones. Car had done 220k and they were fine.

Its was a bitch to get out, yuo turnt he key past a certain point and then insert a 1 or 2 mm rod to pop the barrell out.

HTH

Clacks

Edit: oh, make sure the switch at the back is aligned correctly to "off" so the new barrell pin will line up corretly.
 
V

volatile_explosivo

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Clacker said:
On my car, the metal that connected the barrell to the switch at the back snapped.

I bought the barrell for about $60 from memory and just swapped over the tumblers. The blanks that came with it needed to be cut so used my original ones. Car had done 220k and they were fine.

Its was a bitch to get out, yuo turnt he key past a certain point and then insert a 1 or 2 mm rod to pop the barrell out.

HTH

Clacks

Edit: oh, make sure the switch at the back is aligned correctly to "off" so the new barrell pin will line up corretly.
How much will it cost if the 'garage' fixes it? Labout would be $50 per hour and then the part which is $60? is that about right? I have the same problem just today..it's not something the nrma road services could fix right? And I have to get my car towed to the Auto technician which will cost me no less than $50 so all in all about $160...DANG! dats a bitch of a repair but at least I didn't get stranded anywhere...I could be off work for a couple of days and I'm a casual..that's the bitch about it.
Anyway you guys fixed the problem?
 

Clacker

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volatile_explosivo said:
How much will it cost if the 'garage' fixes it? Labout would be $50 per hour and then the part which is $60? is that about right? I have the same problem just today..it's not something the nrma road services could fix right? And I have to get my car towed to the Auto technician which will cost me no less than $50 so all in all about $160...DANG! dats a bitch of a repair but at least I didn't get stranded anywhere...I could be off work for a couple of days and I'm a casual..that's the bitch about it.
Anyway you guys fixed the problem?

Its not that hard that to do.. once you get the lock out its ok to replace and get back in. Like you, I was lucky the unit snapped at home and not somewhere else...I shudder to think the problems that would have caused.

If it's going to cost you more in lost wages then get it sorted, otherwise I suggest look at it yourself...worst case you lose a few hours and then get it towed.

Assuming you can get to an autoshop to buy the part of course.

I can try and scan manual page if it'll help tonight.

Clacks
 
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