Issues with Subwoofer Power

[ggriff]

Hello All! First time here and having some trouble with a Amp/Sub Hookup.

I just recently purchase a Pioneer TS-WX1210A and install this weekend. Sub has a built in amp and runs on 20 amps.

I have run 8 guage directly from battery in the boot for both the positive and the ground (figured this was the best ground point) and have used a fuse splitter for the ACC fuse in the boot for thr trigger.

I have joint the speaker input to the rear door speakers as I have no parcel tray speakers (non-Bose system). There is a switch on the sub for SP Line which I have selected (as opposed to RCA). I have set the gains, added 6db bass boost and frequency x-over at 80.

Went for a drive last night and everything went perfect. However I have got in the car today and the sub is cutting in and out. The power light on the sub was flickering.

It only seems to be when the car is running. If I turn the car off it starts working perfect again.

I have rechecked and re-done all the wiring checking it all 3 times over and everything is joined nicely and I even tried wriggling cables to try troubleshoot. Nothing changed.

I have been told that I may need a capacitor to run for the current draw might be too much. Am just finding it odd that it works fine last night but they is playing up today.

Just curious if anyone else has had similar issues and what they did to fix it. Any help appreciated

 

[J_D 2.0]

Are your battery and alternator voltages correct? It might be that the battery had just enough power to run it last night but has been drained enough to not work properly now.

If either your battery or alternator are marginal it could be causing the issue. Way back in the day when I used to run 2 x 750w amps with dual subs and 6 speakers it would drop out at higher volume levels until I got a decent Optima battery to run it all.

I wouldn’t think that a standard battery would be hard pressed with just one sub if that’s all your running but if the battery is on the way out the sub might have been the last straw for it.

 

[lmoengnr]

Would it be something to do with the smart charging system?
If the battery isn't 'optimum', it will up the charge voltage close to 15 volts. The amp might see that as a problem?

 

[ggriff]

With doors open, install etc. I did manage to active a Battery Saver mode on the dash last night. But I did drive it after this. I'm thinking of putting a 2 farad capacitor in.

The car does currently have a Thor Heavy Duty battery but I may also replace this later with Optima later since I have had these in previous cars and have been very impressed. The current battery is about 2 years old, never been flat or anything and car run everyday.

Looking at the dash reading the car was running 15v today when driving, did check this. I do have othetlr accessories running such as a Cloud GPS Dashcam, Uniden R7 radar and a cheaper TPMS sensor system but I wouldn't imagind these would have much draw.

May try the 2 farad capacitor for now and look at a Optima battery at a later date. Was curious if anyone else had experienced similar.

P.s. havent driven car with headlights on yet so don't know if I have any dimming on bass notes or not either.

 

[ggriff]

Oh also Sub is 1300w max (300rms) running off a 20amp curcuit if that helps.

 

[shane_3800]

Don't run the neg cable to the battery run it to the shell then to the battery. So the amp sees ground before the battery neg pole.

It sounds like loose wire in the connectors to me.

 

[ggriff]

Don't run the neg cable to the battery run it to the shell then to the battery. So the amp sees ground before the battery neg pole.

It sounds like loose wire in the connectors to me.

I did wonder about the ground to be honest. Might look at putting this to the chassis. Wires are all pretty tight and joined well and re-wired it today to make sure. It will do it when the cars running but when turned off suddenly is fine. Loose wire was my first thought so spent the day making sure these were all good. The only part I haven't check is the plug in the sub itself.

It seems like an alternator/draw issue to me and speaking with someone at Jaycar today they thought it could be that. I'm just not familar with the overall electrics of the car to know for sure.

 

[shane_3800]

It's not an alternator issue. It's a wiring issue.
Having the earth wired directly to the battery will be letting any residual voltage flow back through the amp. In an old car it's not usually an issue but it's likely some of the alternator sense circuit is seeing the capacitance and inductance through the amp it's self.

All this will be resolved if you run a short 2 gauge leg off the battery neg post to the shell then wire any aftermarket stuff to the shell connection point.

 

[ggriff]

It's not an alternator issue. It's a wiring issue.
Having the earth wired directly to the battery will be letting any residual voltage flow back through the amp. In an old car it's not usually an issue but it's likely some of the alternator sense circuit is seeing the capacitance and inductance through the amp it's self.

All this will be resolved if you run a short 2 gauge leg off the battery neg post to the shell then wire any aftermarket stuff to the shell connection point.

Makes sense. I'll give this a go tomorrow. The sub only has a 12ga wire (if even that) coming from it. Is it worth mounted the 8ga to the chassis near it then the amp wire to the chassis nearby in the meantime?

I still find it odd that it went for a couple of hours last night with not an issue with car on and off? Any idea why this might be. Just trying to get an understanding of it.

 

[losh1971]

Amp should have 8BS as a minimum.