/// KBAGZ' Impulse R8 Clubsport

[K-BAGZ]

So, both the oil analysis' came back. I sampled one from the sump and one from the oil filter to inspect the filter's efficiency.

Here are the reports:



Nothing out of the ordinary, as expected. Very happy indeed!

Here's a quick read though for anyone interested. Clean engine oil is fundamental to an engine's durability and reliability during operating conditions. The engine oil lubrication system cools, reduces friction between moving parts and flushes potentially harmful wear particles away from contacting surfaces as it circulates through the engine. The engine oil becomes increasingly contaminated as the engine operates, thus oil filters help reduce wear by collecting these particles from within the oil.

The simple micronic paper “spin-on” filter elements have proven very effective in maintaining cleaner oil via improved oil filtration and an increased ability to provide early clues to the internal health of your engine - and of impending failure/s.

In addition to regular oil filter analysis, I recommend that anyone and everyone use spectrographic means to analyse the oil to monitor trends in minute levels of brass, bronze, aluminium, steel and silicone, etc. Whilst particulate in the sub-microscopic to microscopic range is undetectable during a visual inspection of the filter element contents, this analysis method is a valuable tool for monitoring the health of piston engines where available. And also it's inexpensive! I only pay for the samples to be analysed, not the postage or purchasing of the sample kit.

Also, might tackle the broken engine mount this weekend quickly as well. Get in before it possibly causes more damage, but it hasn't been an issue since owning the beast.

'Till next time!

 

[Risky]

If you look after your car, it'll look after you. that's what I always say. Regular servicing by a reliable mechanic or yourself and regular checks will ensure your ride good reliability & performance. Sadly these days most don't look under the bonnet & never service at regular intervals. I've got a neighbour like that with her Subaru. regardless of what I've showed her to do she still wants others to do it all for nothing & claims mechanics are expensive. She has a couple of kids & I've always pointed out that you should be concerned with safety of your children & yourself when owning & maintaining your car. I gave up on her trying to convince her & then she wonders why it runs like a slug.

An old saying: I own the car, but still paying off the petrol.

At least you look after your ride and it looks fantastic. Love the number plates

 

[K-BAGZ]

Update time!!!

Changed the passenger side engine mount today, she was pretty fingered.




Pretty easy job, one hour all up. Drove the front of the beast on some timber blocks. Sump guard off, and a small 2ton bottle jack with a small timber block on the sump and up she went!

13mm socket - sump guard bolts x 4
18mm deep socket - engine mount nuts x 2
13mm socket/spanner - engine mount bracket to block bolts x 3







Only thing I moved out the way was cylinder 3/5 spark plug leads so I could use a 1/2in Uni joint and extension through the extractors to crack the top nut, and move my hands past in the extractors to get the bracket bolts off. A dab of anti seize on the threads and FT on the arm torque wrench, and she was all done.

GM Part # 92245555 LH/RH engine mount.

'Till next time!

 

[Risky]

Cheers for that, it'll help me when I do mine early next month as they're stuffed.

 

[K-BAGZ]

So this happened today...



Just this month I've noticed a small flat spot around 4000rpm, and it would pop out the exhaust every now and then. I thought to myself, definitely spark related and will have a look in due time, because it was at such a rare occurrence. Once throughout the week.

Anyhow, driving home this morning and it started to misfire like crazy. So babied it back home straight into the driveway, pulled all the ignition leads off, let the engine cool for an hour and then proceeded to remove the spark plugs one by one. And what do you know? Straight up on cylinder 1 I find the culprit. A cracked insulator.

The plugs I found fitted were a NGK R BPR6EFS-15. A weird plug indeed.
Basically these but 1.5mm/.060" gap.


NGK and AC Delco recommended spark plugs for the Z Series 6.0L LS2 Clubsport:
NGK IZTR5B11 1.1mm gap
AC Delco 41-110/41-962/41-963
(Latest recommended GM AC Delco Iridium plug is the 41-963 1.0mm gap, they've changed so many times throughout the years)
AC Delco still recommends 1.5mm gap for the 5.7L LS1 though.


Not one supplier in town stocked those plugs. So I did some quick refined research and found a lot of people run these in Australia and the US of A.

A hotter plug then what was found fitted, but the same gap. So I called the suppliers again, and found someone had exactly 8 in stock. Bingo!





Used a 5/8 spark plug socket, small extension for the passenger side and a Uni joint for the driver's side. All up, a 30min job not including the cool down time. A dab of anti seize on the threads, bit of 3/8 hose for ease of install and firm tension on the ratchet and job done.

Still have the original GM AC Delco ignition leads on currently though, as no-one in town stock them as well! Pity.... As I would have liked to do the leads and plugs together so I know they're done and new. So am currently undecided on what brand to get, though they need to fit the original heat shields or come with new ones. Looking at MSD Superconductor, Eagle and Top Gun brands on eBay at the moment however.

The following test drive through the cold-hot-cold cycle didn't bring up any further ignition issues and the misfire and flatspot are now non existent. Happy days. But I will definitely pull a few plugs later on after a few fuel tank refills and see how they're burning compared to the old BPR6EFS-15 plugs.

Other than that, still slowly piecing together the parts for the water pump changeout. Have already got a Tridon high flow thermostat on its way and an ARP bolt kit, I just have to order new radiator hoses and a genuine water pump and then flush and replace the coolant with some red stuff.

'Til next time!

 

[Surfwagon]

Good work.
Mine has the std Tr55 as that is what Sonny from Autowerks prefers to use.
Ive heard a lot tuners do similar and steer away from the Ix or P plugs.
Don't really know why but have heard stories of plugs snapping off in the head so maybe its because they sit for so long (80k-100k) and weld themselves in with out earlier changing.
But then on the other hand changing std plugs more regularly (every 20k) could easily lead to a crossed thread.
Maybe someone else can shed some more light on this.

As for the water pump definitely go genuine Holden, heard some horror stories of after market pumps failing prematurely.

 

[Surfwagon]

Update time!!!

Changed the passenger side engine mount today, she was pretty fingered.




Pretty easy job, one hour all up. Drove the front of the beast on some timber blocks. Sump guard off, and a small 2ton bottle jack with a small timber block on the sump and up she went!

13mm socket - sump guard bolts x 4
18mm deep socket - engine mount nuts x 2
13mm socket/spanner - engine mount bracket to block bolts x 3







Only thing I moved out the way was cylinder 3/5 spark plug leads so I could use a 1/2in Uni joint and extension through the extractors to crack the top nut, and move my hands past in the extractors to get the bracket bolts off. A dab of anti seize on the threads and FT on the arm torque wrench, and she was all done.

GM Part # 92245555 LH/RH engine mount.

'Till next time!

That's exactly how I did mine, had a few people tell me I could have broken the sump but the sump looks pretty strong to me with load spread over a nice big piece wood.

 

[Risky]

Sounds like you had fun today K-BAGZ. You're right in saying to replace the leads at the same time as the spark plugs. Might be an idea at some point to stock on hard to get things just in case.

I've got the brake pads, new engine mounts, Heater tap & a new water pump to install on mine this week. Even though my brakes have been good I'm going to research on a better system to install later on in the year.

 

[K-BAGZ]

Good work.
Mine has the std Tr55 as that is what Sonny from Autowerks prefers to use.
Ive heard a lot tuners do similar and steer away from the Ix or P plugs.
Don't really know why but have heard stories of plugs snapping off in the head so maybe its because they sit for so long (80k-100k) and weld themselves in with out earlier changing.
But then on the other hand changing std plugs more regularly (every 20k) could easily lead to a crossed thread.
Maybe someone else can shed some more light on this.

As for the water pump definitely go genuine Holden, heard some horror stories of after market pumps failing prematurely.

No suppliers here in town seem to stock the majority of service parts for the LSx engines, so I really had no choice but to go for the iridiums. I'm happy though, but I hear what you're saying. Copper/Nickel isn't as hard wearing as Iridium/Platinum, hence the longevity of the plugs. Though I'll be checking these plugs as regularly as I would a standard plug anyway, just to make sure they are burning correctly and the gaps are still set. I've never had a plug seize in the head or damage the thread, touch wood. Only ever had them break the insulator and that's why I use antiseize to help the next mechanic or myself. Spark plugs should only ever be firm or wrist tight.

Well if the genuine water pump that's currently on the engine (and only weeping out the impeller seal at cold temp) lasted 10 years, I sure as hell am going to get another ahah. I agree with you Surf, as I've seen firsthand what failed aftermarket water pumps look like on a LSx.

That's exactly how I did mine, had a few people tell me I could have broken the sump but the sump looks pretty strong to me with load spread over a nice big piece wood.

Amen! When people say that, they've obviously messed the job up somewhere along the line.

 

[K-BAGZ]

Sounds like you had fun today K-BAGZ. You're right in saying to replace the leads at the same time as the spark plugs. Might be an idea at some point to stock on hard to get things just in case.

I've got the brake pads, new engine mounts, Heater tap & a new water pump to install on mine this week. Even though my brakes have been good I'm going to research on a better system to install later on in the year.

I always have fun working on the Clubsport. Can never replace the feeling of joy and happiness installing new parts and actually seeing/hearing/feeling the difference.

Don't touch what ain't broke, but remove to improve is my saying. Even though the current original leads are working fine and pass the resistance spec, they've done nearly 130,000km. Change out time! Being a fitter by trade, I love preventative maintenance rather then breakdowns. But sometimes things break unwarranted, and that's just the way it is.

Another problem is too, that my own Holden Dealer doesn't stock a lot of spare parts either. Only the norm of filters etc. Majority of spares in this town are order in, and they wonder why I barter so much when I can get prices way better online with FREE FREIGHT and postage insurance. I support my local bloke in due course, but sometimes #### me dead.... X3 RRP Mark ups on basic stuff.

I have put away every single part I've taken off the Clubsport into a box anyway, even the broken/unusable stuff. That way, if there's ever an emergency and I need to use/look at something, it's there.

Do your brakes last, engine mounts first and make sure you remove the knock sensors to drain the coolant from the block correctly. You might be amazed with the amount of crud built up on top on the knock sensor.