Keyless start

[accentstencil]

If you need to depress the clutch pedal then I don't see much point in it really, you might as well just chuck the key in the ignition while you are there. Leaving the car in neutral could pose problems, especially on hills.

 

[DeeVee]

I was going to purchase this kit a while back, but didn't because it doesn't do exactly what I want. I sent the guy an email asking for a copy of the instructions to see how hard it would be to install before I buy it. It is quite simple to install but I think they have missed a few important things, probably to save them money and save us time.

How it Works:
Basically the trigger wire for the kit comes from the drivers lock/unlock solenoid. So when the kit sees that the UNLOCK wire has gone +12volts 3 times within 7 seconds it starts the engine. Now a lot of people say how does it do that without the immobilizer kicking in and stopping the engine, the answer is when you unlock your car the little security/padlock light on the cluster doesn't come on for 30 seconds, indicating the immobilizer has become active. WHEN the engine is running, the security light will NOT come on. This is why you cannot (without modification) have the car running with no key when it is LOCKED. because as soon as you press lock on the key the immobilizer is active straight away. I have tested this on a VY calais and a VZ calais using a piece of thin circular plastic with a hole in it for the key stalk to stop the little piece of metal on the key from touching the metal ring around the ignition.

What They Missed:
The kit does not check the following things: If the car is in park, if the handbrake is on, if the bonnet is closed (someone could working on the cars engine with the key in their pocket and happen to press unlock 3 times)

Anyways I couldn't justify 100bucks for something that's not going to do everything I want. so i decided to make my own If you guys wanna see pictures of my progress let me know and ill put some on my page.

 

[scrano]

I'd like too see it DeeVee for sure, it'd be great too see how you did, or are doing it. I'm guessing that you're gonna just replicate what they've done in that kit, and just add the extra safety features, yeah? Or are you doing something slightly different?

Looking at that kits instructions, was it a plug and play type of device, or was there some splicing of wires, and soldering involved? Because they make it sound as though it's basically a plug and play/use device, but like GoodTimes, and a couple of others have pointed out, there seems to be more involved than just plugging it in and using it.

Are you just putting it together as a project, or are you planning on putting a kit together for other people? Just wondering, cause it is a nice idea in principle, and it'd certainly be a nice feature too have, especially with all of the extra safety features that you mentioned

 

[DeeVee]

Thanks scrano, I am in the process of doing it at the moment, it’s just about ready to go! When I get time to test it I’ll let ya know how it does. I’m gonna post more photos on here: Pictures by DEEEVEEE - Photobucket as I go. So you can see how my progress is going

yes I’m basically replicating what the guy on eBay has done, but with the extra safety stuff. One other thing I didn’t like about his kit was how it ONLY uses the driver’s door lock actuator as the trigger. So if I’m sitting in the car and I physically lock and unlock the driver’s door 3 times my car is gonna start? I don’t want that! I want it to start ONLY if I actually press unlock on the remote control (2 presses) the trouble with that is there is no magic wire on the BCM (that I could find) that ONLY goes +12 volts or Ground when I push unlock on the remote.

So I actually have a second circuit board near the BCM that works like this... It is connected to the indicators (left and right) the driver’s door lock solenoid (lock and unlock) and the Hazard light switch. So if the circuit sees that both indicators have flashed AT THE SAME TIME, along with either a lock or unlock signal from the drivers lock solenoid and the hazard light button is NOT pressed, then my circuit will give me a pulse for half a second of +5 volts which will go to my remote start kit.

Because of all these features I don’t know if it would be good making it into a kit for people to buy as the installation takes a bit of time, and if you make a wrong connection it could stuff up something and/or take ages to find out what went wrong. I guess if people are keen enough and are confident they could do it I might look into making it into kit form (with the circuit board assembled of course) but let’s just see how mine goes and if people like it or not lol.

The guys kit is not hard to install, there’s no soldering or cutting of wires that needs to be done, he uses things he calls "Splice Clips" to connect everything (google image search to see what they look like, they’re blue) yes looks like people have had trouble with his kit lol.

Feel like I’m writing an essay hahahaha. Anyways pics will be on photo bucket, I’ll try put up some of the circuit that gives me a lock and unlock signal.

 

[scrano]

I can't wait too see it all, and I'd be interested in buying it, if you were gonna do a kit. I think a lot of people love the idea of a kit like this, it's just that everyone that wants to do it, has been put off by dodgy stories, of some of those pre-existing kits wreaking havoc, but that could just be a bad kit. I've gotta admit, that I didn't consider some of the issues that you mentioned, until you brought them up, so I'm glad that you posted about them.

Like I said, I'm sure that like myself, that there would be plenty of people through the forum here, that would be interested in paying for a kit.

 

[Tim Smtih]

This would have come in handy today, my ignition barrel packed it in.

 

[DeeVee]

I will definitely keep you up to date on my progress! If all goes well Ill see how much a kit would cost to make, and let you know what the process of installing it would be like then you can let me know if your still interested. I might be able to give you a hand with the install.

Don't know if i would be able to do kits for manual tho, as it was said above I didn't actually know you need to depress the clutch to start the engine in a manual VZ. Anyway ill keep ya up to date

 

[scrano]

Yeah thanks mate, I really appreciate that, and you wouldn't have too worry about a clutch on mine, as it's a VX Berlina Auto with an LS1, so hopefully it'd just be a pretty similar setup too yours

 

[darcycammo]

So the one on ebay is safe to buy and use on an auto? as i will get one but unless there is a couple of people that have bought it and there all happy i wont risk it

 

[gru53m]

I brought one from the same guy on eBay & it works great on my Auto VT that also has a mongoose alarm as well.

The only thing i did different from what the instructions was, the wire that connects to the brake switch on the pedal he says to use a scotch lock crimp, I stripped the wire back & soldered the wire on directly & then taped it up.The other one was to pull the main power wire connector from the ignition barrel and to just feed the wire through the holes in the clips BUT i stripped the wire back & soldered them as well.

Other then that the kit works well so if someone was to open the car & try to drive it it will stop as soon as the brake pedal is pressed if the key is not turned to the on position.

the only problem i find is that once you start the car without the key Nothing that works off ACC will turn on.