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Looking to make power

hjtrbo

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No, my earlier post was a bit misleading so I changed it to be more accurate. My heads are Higgins with a cam supplied by APS.

If I had my time over again I would have gone with FI Interchiller for everything.

If you have the cash ready to go, give Kirk a call. He'll put you on the right path for your budget.
 

Coreyhsv

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Yeah fair enough id probably do the same, his in Sydney and im located Melbourne.
 

hjtrbo

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Yeah fair enough id probably do the same, his in Sydney and im located Melbourne.

Nice. Not sure what he has affiliate wise for workshops in Vic. Call him and see where it goes. If all else fails, APS or Independent Motorsports will do you a nice no bullshit package as well. And they'll leave the ECU unlocked. Nothing to hide.
 

shane_3800

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On interchillers, has anyone got any data on how much horse power the A/C comp sucks. What the hot and cold sides temps look like over long dyno sessions? What is the power increase over a water to air system?
I'm very skeptical on how effective interchiller systems are over a normal water to air system.
 

hjtrbo

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@shane_3800 Happy to answer your questions. Have had the Interchiller system on my car for over a year now.

AC is off at WOT so not an issue power loss wise. That said, there is more fuel consumption when cruising as the AC is on double duty to cool the intercooler fluid and keep the driver happy at 23degC. The idea is you keep the reservoir always cold when cruising so that you have a supply of cold fluid for a WOT burst. The system is designed for short pulls aka drag racing. It is not suitable for track days. For that you have a bypass valve and switch back in the factory heat exchanger.

Here is a log from yesterday where I am just puttin' around town. Ambient temp 24degC. Intake air temp 30degC. Manifold Air Temp 11degC. No power gain there but gives you an idea of starting intake air temps before you start a pull. Note that this is on the cruise setting. On a factory setup or water to air setup, you can never cool lower than ambient so your starting MAT will always be higher than mine. Obviously as the pull progresses and the fluid heats up, the MAT rises. Should the MAT rise above circa 55degC then timing is starts being pulled.
1644532966502.png


The system can go colder than the log shown as I have it on the cruise setting where the cabin AC and Interchiller are working together. I have a switch that turns on a solenoid to prevent the gas going to the cabin AC. You set the cabin AC to max low to make the AC work hard. All the gas is directed to the Interchiller heat exchanger. I've only done this once and I got my Manifold Air Temp down to -2degC at idle. (I'm trying to find an old log of this for you). This is how you would have it set up on the dyno. At MAT's below 10degC you can start to add timing back in. So a small initial gain there which will help the 60ft time.

Here is a good example of the system working for a road pull to adjust some fuelling. (Remember it is still on the cruise setting so I am not showing the system off in it's best light). Start of pull (heat soaked engine bay) Intake air temp 52degC, Manifold air temp 19degC, Ambient air temp 33degC.
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And at the end of the pull. Intake air temp 31degC, Manifold air temp 29degC, Ambient air temp 33degC.
1644534269619.png


For excessively long pulls aka Mile Racing, the Interchiller fluid will heat up to a point where there is no more benefit (because AC is off at WOT). I do have sensor ports that I haven't wired in yet. Waiting to get a decent standalone logger going. What I'm thinking down the road is at above some xyz fluid temp and a function of ambient temp I will automatically switch the fluid path over to the factory heat exchanger and keep cooling it that way until the pull is over. This method would also work for circuit racing.
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