Loss of charge and other electrical problems

[The1]

voltages sound right so your alternator is working. You still need to really test to see if there any amperage drain the batt though, so you obviously have a multimeter, if you dont know how to check for current being draw then reply back and ill write up.

 

[Cobra Clutch]

voltages sound right so your alternator is working. You still need to really test to see if there any amperage drain the batt though, so you obviously have a multimeter, if you dont know how to check for current being draw then reply back and ill write up.

I've done it in the past a little, but don't really know what to do comfortably.

My brother is an elec engineer, so I used to get the him to check, but he's too far away now.
Man, I know its a hassle, but I would appreciate it so much , as I've had several problems with losing current on the VS.

 

[The1]

You need to switch your positive lead on your multimeter to the other socket which should be coloured red as well, should have max 10amps or something like that on it. You need to set it to DC amp mode, some have different scales some are automatic digital ones, you just want the 20 units mode so that everything below 1 amp will show up as for eg 100millamps where as if you set it at 200units it would show 0.1amp this is to give you your proper scale and give more detailed figures.

Once you've done this remove your positive cable from the battery, the multimeter will act as a pass-through device so it can read the current draw, so one terminal on the battery and the other on the positive cable that is normally on the battery's pole.

You should then get a reading of x amount of milliamps, for a normal car you would see in the range of about 25 milliamps or less. If the figure is above this then start removing fuses one by one and rechecking the narrow it down to what is drawing the excessive current.

Hope this helps

 

[Cobra Clutch]

Thanks mate, thats awesome. I just started testing before, thought they were the right settings. I have 3 positive terminals; the V, A (2A max) and an unfused 20Amax.

A guy in another thread told me to put it in the fuse holes after taking one out, but when i touched it with the multi lead, it arced up!
Either that is the one that is drawing, or I've done something wrong...

Anyway, might do it your way, thats how my brother used to do it

 

[The1]

you would want the 20amp unfused, you would have just blown the crap out of the fuse, but if it blew the fuse with it in the 2amp socket then no wonder your battery goes flat quick.

 

[Cobra Clutch]

U mean the MM fuse?
I doesn't look burnt, I might be alright.

Can I assume that fuse was the one causing the problem, or...

It is the parking light, trip computer fuse

Thanks again for all the help too mate

 

[The1]

on the 2 amp plug on the multimeter is 2amp max, it has a 2amp fuse on that circuit inside the MM, that plug will no longer work till the fuse is replaced inside the MM, the unfused circuit should still continue to function.

 

[Cobra Clutch]

on the 2 amp plug on the multimeter is 2amp max, it has a 2amp fuse on that circuit inside the MM, that plug will no longer work till the fuse is replaced inside the MM, the unfused circuit should still continue to function.

Yeah, thats what I'm saying, I checked it and it looks fine to me, but maybe sometimes its hard to tell.

 

[The1]

if you put the multimeter into diode test or resistance test mode you can test the fuse, if it's ok it should short out to 1 or 0 if nothing comes up it's blown. You can test the reading by touching the multimeter probes together.

Have you checked the amperage load being drawn from the battery what did it read?

 

[Cobra Clutch]

I havn't tested the load on the car yet, as I ran out of time last night.
I'm pretty sure the problem is fixed, because this morning it seemed like it had full charge on start, but will still check tonight.

Thanks so much for the help man, I will post the full fix later for anyone who might have similar problems.

Now I have to deal with this 'squealing' problem on start-up that is back.
I originally thought it was electrical, but now it kind of sounds like a drivebelt thing, because when the car is warm and I start it, it doesn't make the sound.

I recently replaced the tensioner arm and the idler pulleys and I also bought a new drive belt last year.
Another thing to get me scracthin my head...

I'm pretty handy with the tools, but I'm not great at diagnosing the problem...thank God for this forum!