Welcome to Just Commodores, a site specifically designed for all people who share the same passion as yourself.

New Posts Contact us

Just Commodores Forum Community

It takes just a moment to join our fantastic community

Register

Melted fuse holder

Jxfwsf

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
4,852
Reaction score
109
Points
48
Location
Aus
Members Ride
commodore
what you have done should fix the problem, yes some crc or alternatively get some vaseline and smear it in there to stop air and moisture getting in there and causing corrosion, it's taken 20 odd years for it to get to this point so in theory it should last another 20 without anything protecting it.
 

VK SL 3800

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2009
Messages
1,763
Reaction score
67
Points
48
Location
.
Members Ride
VK SL 5spd
You've got my curiosity up. Please explain how is this so?

They create a high resistance to flow which creates heat, enough resistance creates enough heat to melt the fuse.
 

wortus

Active Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2009
Messages
1,885
Reaction score
22
Points
38
Location
Sydney
Members Ride
VY Series 2 25th Anniversary in Phantom Mica
They create a high resistance to flow which creates heat, enough resistance creates enough heat to melt the fuse.

If it's a bad earth causing a high resistance then it would heat up at the earth point not the fuse. Given the earth point is usually to the body which is a good heat sink I doubt a loose or corroded earth connection would be able to cause excessive heat build up.
It might also be worth checking underneath that fuse holder to see if the wires are loose. From memory the main power wire into this fuse holder screws on and if it's been removev it's very hard to tighten it sufficiently without cracking the body.
 

Jxfwsf

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
4,852
Reaction score
109
Points
48
Location
Aus
Members Ride
commodore
From memory the main power wire into this fuse holder screws on and if it's been removev it's very hard to tighten it sufficiently without cracking the body.

nah that's the big main fuses you're thinking of that has the main positive bolted to it. headlight fuses are just wired from the loom into the terminals of the fuse holder.
 

Dave6179

Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2012
Messages
165
Reaction score
10
Points
18
Location
NZ
Members Ride
HJ Belmont, VN Calais, VX SS
I fitted 90/100 bulbs in the wifes VN Calais, melted the fuse holder. Went back to 55/60 +90 and haven't had an issue since.
 

Dave6179

Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2012
Messages
165
Reaction score
10
Points
18
Location
NZ
Members Ride
HJ Belmont, VN Calais, VX SS
Until last night! 3 and a half years and the left bulb has blown. Osram, made in Germany. Probly can't buy them as singles either! Also, my 'blue' bulbs in my HJ are fairly useless... in the wet. Can't see a damn thing, checked the light switch 3 times to make sure they were actually on. Think I'll go back to regular bulbs.
 

Jxfwsf

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
4,852
Reaction score
109
Points
48
Location
Aus
Members Ride
commodore
as a general rule if 1 blows the other isn't far behind (unless it's caused by hitting that particular globe or something similar that isn't just age/wear and tear) so it's good practice to replace both at once, keep the one that is still working in a packet in the glovebox for a spare.

now some simple maths and i'll ignore low beam, P(ower)=V(olts) X A(mps) so P / V = A and i'll just use 12 volts even though it's really closer 13.8-14.4V

55/60W globes, 60W(H4) x 2 + 55(H3) x 2 = 230W, 230/12=19.166666A, we'll round it upto 20A for good measure and this is what the standard globes will draw

90/100W globes, 100W(H4) x 2 + 55(H3) x 2 = 310W, 310/12=25.83333A, 25A isn't enough to blow the fuse but will create excessive heat on the blades.

90/100W globes and 100W H3's if someone puts 100W globes in all 4 high beam sockets, 400/12=33.3333A, this is where people really come unstuck and they will put a higher amp fuse in and the wiring & fuse holder just isn't up to handling close to 15A more than what it was designed to do.

xxx/130W H4 & 100W H3, 460 / 12 = 38.3333A and the list goes on to whatever combination of globes is used.

Apart from the wiring not being upto scratch with age (the older the cable the more corrosion will be present playing havoc with connections and splices) and it simply wasn't designed to be carrying these loads, to high a wattage globe (especially in newer cars with plastic headlights) can damage the housings and lenses.
 
Last edited:

Mudgy

New Member
Joined
May 7, 2012
Messages
46
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Central Coast NSW
Members Ride
VN Calais V8
If the car has H/lamp relays (I'm sure they do) you can run a new supply to the relay, fused from the Battery if need be. Like I said before, BIG glass fuse holders in the fuse box (for heater fan, and H/lamps) and you're good to go. I did this and ran 90/130W,H4's and 130W H3's No problems.


No need for ugly spotties either!
 

Jxfwsf

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
4,852
Reaction score
109
Points
48
Location
Aus
Members Ride
commodore
or another alternative which works quite well on a quick fix, crimp a couple of spade plugs on the wires.

relay.jpg
 
Top