My HSV Clubsport

[VT2Commie]

Just don't have an alignment tool...

An alignment tool will only be aligning the back plate rear main seal opening to the crankshaft. This is how the tool aligns the seal to crankshaft.

Since the back plate you have purchased has the seal already installed, unless you remove the new seal from the new backplate, the alignment tool is not going to be able to be used to align the back plate to the crankshaft as you wont be able to fit the tool due to the seal being in the way.

This can only be achieved if the rear main seal is NOT in the backplate.

You could remove the new seal from the new backplate though this is not ideal.

I'd also go along and TORQUE all the sump bolts to spec. before the backplate is installed for extra insurance as you dont want to be doing it after you've installed the back plate as you will have the potential of "squeezing" residual engine oil into your nice solvent cleaned RTV joint

Invest in some good shop solvent (i use CRC CO Cleaner as it leave no residue, ideal for RTV sealants) and thoroughly clean by spraying the sump to engine block corners at each side of the sump gasket, as well as the back plate engine block surface,(spotless and dry with no oil residue) apply a small 2-3mm bead of good RTV (preferably threebond grey) into the corners only at both sides where the engine block to sump gasket meets. I would even go as far as slightly lifting the sump gasket a VERY tiny amount and flushing underneath the gasket with solvent as well.

This will give the best chance of not leaking in future with how you are taking on the repair ( in the vehicle, sump on)

 

[HSV-Paul]

An alignment tool will only be aligning the back plate rear main seal opening to the crankshaft. This is how the tool aligns the seal to crankshaft.

Since the back plate you have purchased has the seal already installed, unless you remove the new seal from the new backplate, the alignment tool is not going to be able to be used to align the back plate to the crankshaft as you wont be able to fit the tool due to the seal being in the way.

This can only be achieved if the rear main seal is NOT in the backplate.

You could remove the new seal from the new backplate though this is not ideal.

I'd also go along and TORQUE all the sump bolts to spec. before the backplate has been installed for extra insurance as you dont want to be doing it after you've installed the back plate as you will have the potential of "squeezing" residual engine oil into your nice solvent cleaned RTV joint

Invest in some good shop solvent (i use CRC CO Cleaner as it leave no residue, ideal for RTV sealants) and thoroughly clean by spraying the sump to engine block corners at each side of the sump gasket, as well as the back plate engine block surface,(spotless and dry with no oil residue) apply a small 2-3mm bead of good RTV (preferably threebond grey) into the corners along both sides where the engine block to sump gasket meets.

This will give the best chance of not leaking in future with how you are taking on the repair ( in the vehicle, sump on)

Thanks, appreciate it...

 

[Dylan kingswood]

Make sure you lube both seals before reassembly. I use grease, or Vaseline but some use oil.

Vasoline eats rubber

 

[losh1971]

Vasoline eats rubber

Yeah but not seals on transmissions or engines.

 

[HSV-Paul]

So yeah just sorting out a rack and come across these. Seem to recall buying them upon a recommendation on here, but never fitted and it appears forgot about them lol.

If there ever was a time hey!

 

[HSV-Paul]

Tidying up the loom and come across this...

Think I might keep an eye out for an engine loom, but I'll insulate all that is obvious, not ripping it all back altho not a bad idea actually...

 

[chrisp]

Tidying up the loom and come across this...

View attachment 267164

Think I might keep an eye out for an engine loom, but I'll insulate all that is obvious, not ripping it all back altho not a bad idea actually...

What does that connect to?

 

[Skylarking]

Patching a stuffed loom because the insulation is degrading can be like putting a finger in a dike. It’s ok as a temporary emergency repair but not the best solution long term as the insulation will continue to degrade.

Obviously the solution depends on whether the insulation damage is mechanical in nature or due to some chemical reaction that degrades the insulation. But replacement is a much better solution if the cause is chemical degradation rather than insulation being rubbed through because of vibration.

Have you checked what a new engine loom actually costs at a dealer?

 

[HSV-Paul]

What does that connect to?

A CAT sensor, not 100% tho..

 

[chrisp]

Patching a stuffed loom because the insulation is degrading can be like putting a finger in a dike. It’s ok as a temporary emergency repair but not the best solution long term as the insulation will continue to degrade.

Obviously the solution depends on whether the insulation damage is mechanical in nature or due to some chemical reaction that degrades the insulation. But replacement is a much better solution if the cause is chemical degradation rather than insulation being rubbed through because of vibration.

Have you checked what a new engine loom actually costs at a dealer?

From this distance, that looks like chemical damage. More specifically, it is oil (from a leak?) on PVC insulation. It somehow leaching out the plasticiser out of the insulation and the insulation becomes brittle and crumbles away.

It will probably be confined to the ends of the wires (assuming that’s as far as the oil went). A reasonably good fix would be to remove a pin from the connector (using the proper pin-extraction-tool) and sliding a piece of heatshrink tubing over the problem area, then reinstall that pin (so it goes back in to the correct hole). And repeat for each pin. It’s not a perfect repair, but much better than taping it. Also, glue-lined heatshrink will help protect the actual copper conductors for further chemical issues, but it might also make the loom too stiff?

New engine loom would be idea, if they are available and not stupidly expensive. But I’d be fixing those oil leaks before investing the time and money in to replacing the loom.