New billet tailshaft couplings in but vibrating real bad

[Crowie17]

Hi all, just put some billet tail shaft couplings in my vz ss ute, but half through my drive home it began to shake and shudder a lot while rolling, goes away alittle under load, I’m thinking it could be I didn’t put the tail shaft back in right, any tricks to see how to get it back to normal ? Cheers

 

[_R_J_K_]

When you take any part of the tailshaft out you're supposed to keep it in alignment with the rest of the tailshaft (usually people draw a white line over the two connecting faces of each piece). Rotate one half of the tail shaft until the vibration goes away, and make sure it's bolted to the car properly - your description makes it sound like one side of a bracket might be loose.

 

[LYV Y R]

I just had the same thing.
Everything looks seated and true.
Vibrate on coast down
Suspect they are carntz of things, putting OEM back in.

 

[Fu Manchu]

They are probably now having any wear in the centre bearing accentuated. Also improper alignment of the drive shaft?

 

[LYV Y R]

OEM work fine before and after

 

[shane_3800]

They're rubber for a reason, when the rear cradle bushes load up the diff will be out of line to the transmission, now you have one uni joint that has no twin to even out the acceleration pulses, thus giving vibration which is what the rubber dampens.

 

[LYV Y R]

After exhaust off tailshaft out 3 times, l found the inner diameter of the crush tubes were bigger than oem.
OEM neat on bolt, these have clearance.
Means not pinned, get off centre, vibrate.
Not fit for purpose or sale.

 

[LYV Y R]

I got had by dodgy prick with 8 sales on ebay.
My own fault.

 

[Pollushon]

Even the quality ones are not smooth. I tried them out once, I'd rather just change stock donuts more often

 

[losh1971]

Rubber couplings have been fine for me too. They seem to handle a fair bit of WOT standing starts. They don't do so well with burnouts, I'm told. I'm not sure about clutch dumps, as I've not done many, if any of those.