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Paint Protection. Should I get it or just use a GOOD Polish

NigelD

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Next week I will have another car for the Family Collection as I purchased a 2013 MY14 Caprice V in Phantom Black. The car itself was always garaged from day one and in a very good condition. Now the Big Question::::: Should I get Paint Protection mainly for its shine as I want the car to be Shinny like the SV6 Storm in Heron White is. Yes the Caprice will be locked in Garage, not driven in wet roads and not left in the Sun so what do you think Should I get Paint Protection or a GOOD polish
For Paint Protection what do you recommend me to gey.

For Polish what type and Brand should I get

Thanks
Just finished a DYI ceramic coating using AVALONKING coating from the US.
Cost me $145 to get 2 kits; this is what they recommended for large cars.
Their web site has full instructions on video - but it's pretty easy my paint is only 12 months old so I missed the clay bar step.

Good snow wash - then good hand wash
Dry well with micro-fibre towel
(clay bar would be here)
Wipe down with isopropyl alcohol (if you can find any - it's like toilet paper, the county has gone mad making hand sanitiser)
I'll let car people know where to get it :)
Like painting, the key is the prep - this all took a couple of hours.
The ceramic coating is super easy to apply - one panel at a time - wait a minute (30C in perth that day)
Buff off - easy as. Less than one hour.
Very pleased with the finish - water just runs off - doesn't seem to get dirty - easier to wash and dry.
They suggest it lasts 2-5 years - we'll see. Conditions here much milder than the US.
A pic if you are interested.

Nigel D Perth
IMG_0306.JPG
 
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426Cuda

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Just finished a DYI ceramic coating using AVALONKING coating from the US.
Cost me $145 to get 2 kits; this is what they recommended for large cars.
Their web site has full instructions on video - but it's pretty easy my paint is only 12 months old so I missed the clay bar step.

Good snow wash - then good hand wash
Dry well with micro-fibre towel
(clay bar would be here)
Wipe down with isopropyl alcohol (if you can find any - it's like toilet paper, the county has gone mad making hand sanitiser)
I'll let car people know where to get it :)
Like painting, the key is the prep - this all took a couple of hours.
The ceramic coating is super easy to apply - one panel at a time - wait a minute (30C in perth that day)
Buff off - easy as. Less than one hour.
Very pleased with the finish - water just runs off - doesn't seem to get dirty - easier to wash and dry.
They suggest it lasts 2-5 years - we'll see. Conditions here much milder than the US.
A pic if you are interested.

Nigel D PerthView attachment 210210
No swirls Nigel? Nice rig BTW.
 

White Swan

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Just finished a DYI ceramic coating using AVALONKING coating from the US.
Cost me $145 to get 2 kits; this is what they recommended for large cars.
Their web site has full instructions on video - but it's pretty easy my paint is only 12 months old so I missed the clay bar step.

Good snow wash - then good hand wash
Dry well with micro-fibre towel
(clay bar would be here)
Wipe down with isopropyl alcohol (if you can find any - it's like toilet paper, the county has gone mad making hand sanitiser)
I'll let car people know where to get it :)
Like painting, the key is the prep - this all took a couple of hours.
The ceramic coating is super easy to apply - one panel at a time - wait a minute (30C in perth that day)
Buff off - easy as. Less than one hour.
Very pleased with the finish - water just runs off - doesn't seem to get dirty - easier to wash and dry.
They suggest it lasts 2-5 years - we'll see. Conditions here much milder than the US.
A pic if you are interested.

Nigel D PerthView attachment 210210

Are you saying that after 12 months of ownership your car had nothing at all sticking to the paint and didn't need a clay bar the smooth it out?

I can't see what polish you used, did you lock in the surface with a ceramic coating without first removing even the minor swirls all car get?
 

NigelD

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No swirls Nigel? Nice rig BTW.
No swirls Nigel? Nice rig BTW.

Thanks - No swirls that I can see.
I had the SS treatment pack when I bought it (new) in Feb last year. That included paint.
semi-retired so have only done 12000 (just had the 30000 service ha ha) and it has been garaged for most of that time.
Have always used a good wash (bowden's nanolicious) - maybe I was being a bit lazy but I didn't think the clay bar was necessary.
Cheers
Nigel
 

NigelD

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Are you saying that after 12 months of ownership your car had nothing at all sticking to the paint and didn't need a clay bar the smooth it out?

I can't see what polish you used, did you lock in the surface with a ceramic coating without first removing even the minor swirls all car get?

I had the SS treatment pack when I bought it (new) in Feb last year. That included paint.
semi-retired so have only done 12000 (just had the 30000 service ha ha) and it has been garaged for most of that time.
Have always used a good wash (bowden's nanolicious weekly) - maybe I was being a bit lazy but I didn't think the clay bar was necessary.
Water still beaded nicely on the dealer's paint treatment - but I thought it was becoming less effective. Wasn't sure how long that would last.

I didn't use any polish just a thorough clean and dry then the isopropyl then the ceramic coat.
I suppose in 2-5 years or whatever the clay bay may be necessary.

Nigel
 

White Swan

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You must have spent your 12000km driving in in a vacuum to not pick up contaminants from the road surface, sap from trees and general airborne particles and not have some of them still clinging to the paint regardless of how good your washing solution is.

The whole idea of the clay bay is to make sure the surface is mirror smooth and the paint is clean before applying a sealing coat otherwise you lock in all the contaminants, that’s a 101 stage of basic detailing before polishing or adding sealants.

You can thoroughly wash a car and look at the surface thinking its totally clean then find when you use a clay bar that it starts to turn dirty from all the surface grim and contaminants that are still there, if you don’t remove this film you never get the good shine that makes a car look great and if you lock it in with a paint sealer it takes a lot of time and effort with a machine buffer to remove the hard sealant to fix the problem.

In short if you don’t clay bar as part of your detailing process you never get the great shine and it’s even more critical if you are going to apply a sealant.

I won’t comment on the swirls as I’m sure there are other people on the forum who know more about the important of a polish before using a sealant.

Just a little warning for others who think skipping the clay bar stage is a good idea.
 

NigelD

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You must have spent your 12000km driving in in a vacuum to not pick up contaminants from the road surface, sap from trees and general airborne particles and not have some of them still clinging to the paint regardless of how good your washing solution is.

The whole idea of the clay bay is to make sure the surface is mirror smooth and the paint is clean before applying a sealing coat otherwise you lock in all the contaminants, that’s a 101 stage of basic detailing before polishing or adding sealants.

You can thoroughly wash a car and look at the surface thinking its totally clean then find when you use a clay bar that it starts to turn dirty from all the surface grim and contaminants that are still there, if you don’t remove this film you never get the good shine that makes a car look great and if you lock it in with a paint sealer it takes a lot of time and effort with a machine buffer to remove the hard sealant to fix the problem.

In short if you don’t clay bar as part of your detailing process you never get the great shine and it’s even more critical if you are going to apply a sealant.

I won’t comment on the swirls as I’m sure there are other people on the forum who know more about the important of a polish before using a sealant.

Just a little warning for others who think skipping the clay bar stage is a good idea.

I don't remember suggesting that skipping the clay bay was a good idea. I think I just said I didn't do it.
I couldn't be happier with the look and finish.
I really just wanted to answer the original post and recommend what I thought was a good product.
I am also really sorry you are unhappy with my detailing.

BTW I also coated all windows and headlights
 

VFSV6FORME

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Guys
I'm trying to find out why my car is very SHINNY EXCEPT for the rear Passengers door. Now it was like this before I detailed the car but now after sitting down and thinking I want to asked that million dollar issue I have that one door only is duller than the rest of the car. Now if you look at the Panel itself by itself you would say "what wrong with it?" but when you look at the car itself you will say why the rest of the car is Very shinny but not the passengers rear door.
It has been bough to my attention that the Car the Caprice V might have had a Ceramic Coating done on it when NEW and since the original owner might have damaged the rear passenger door and fixed and re-painted it the Panel Shop with the Spray painter might have said we will fix the door, paint it but WE WONT BLEND IT IN as if we BLEND it in we will go over panels that are extremely shinny and we dont wont to do this. Is there a possibly of this.

The Front Guard, The Front Door, the Rear Quarter is shinny but not so the rear door. If it possibly that the car has been done with Ceramic Coating than the Damage on the rear Door, then repainted with no Ceramic Coating and this is the reason why that panel is slightly,slightly, slightly duller.




The rear Door is not as SHINNY as the rest of the car, The car is 100%, the rear Door is 97% shinny and a old man like me can pick it.
 
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Ron Burgundy

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I can't see the difference however there are some weird circles on there ....
 

AKKY

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Very good reading in this thread!
Has anyone every had opti-coat done here in Sydney? If someone has how was the experience? How did the car turn out? Did it cost more than 1 limb?
 
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