Possessed VZ SV6

[needinghelp]

I did try looking for similar posts but couldn't quite find help.

04 VZ SV6.

- Check Alternator on dash intermittently.
While driving the dash lights, radio, gauges and all flicker or turn off for a bit than back on. Coming home before and dash flickered off and all remaining was the park brake light on with a message on dash saying Brake.

I just brought a multimeter and under load it doesn't drop past 12.7 and stays around 14.2 and is within good charging range but if I take off the negative terminal to the battery the car just dies which indicates a bad alternator.
I did notice today everytime I idle the check alternator comes on but accelerate and it turns off.


Also, this has a Mitsubishi 120amp alternator which I'm wondering, is that interchangeable with the standard 100amp alternator that's on other VZ commodores.?

Thank you.

 

[commodore665]

I would say it's on the way out , I had the same issue , being replaced today

 

[lout]

never disconnect battery on a modern car with engine running
you run the risk of frying every electronic module in the car
99% you have a faulty alternator
just buy an OEX replacement for the 120A
make sure to get VZ and not VE

 

[needinghelp]

I would say it's on the way out , I had the same issue , being replaced today

How'd things go mate after the new alternator?

 

[needinghelp]

never disconnect battery on a modern car with engine running
you run the risk of frying every electronic module in the car
99% you have a faulty alternator
just buy an OEX replacement for the 120A
make sure to get VZ and not VE

Thanks for the information, I didn't know it could destroy modules, I thought fuses prevented that?. Ok I found at a wreckers there's a 120A exactly the same for $70.

It's weird though right because when I search Repco ot SCA for an alternator it says the 100AMP version is the only available for my car. So I rang Repco and asked, is it okay to fit a standard 100AMP, as specified by Repco as a replacement part for my vehicle, instead of the 120AMP. He paused for 5 secs and said... If you don't mind having 20AMPs less, I guess. C'mon man...

 

[lout]

if you look at the pictures you will see the bosch mounts differently to the mitsubishi

https://www.repco.com.au/parts-service/electrical-parts-vehicle-management/alternators/c/1862918159?q=%3Arelevance&text=#

 

[needinghelp]

if you look at the pictures you will see the bosch mounts differently to the mitsubishi

http://[URL]https://www.repco.com.a.../alternators/c/1862918159?q=:relevance&text=#

[/URL]

I cannot see it mate, can you point it out for me please.

Bosch
https://www.google.com/search?q=BXM...biw=1280&bih=641&dpr=1.5#imgrc=qEluk_5-c9ZKcM

Other:

 

[Fu Manchu]

Thanks for the information, I didn't know it could destroy modules, I thought fuses prevented that?. Ok I found at a wreckers there's a 120A exactly the same for $70.

It's weird though right because when I search Repco ot SCA for an alternator it says the 100AMP version is the only available for my car. So I rang Repco and asked, is it okay to fit a standard 100AMP, as specified by Repco as a replacement part for my vehicle, instead of the 120AMP. He paused for 5 secs and said... If you don't mind having 20AMPs less, I guess. C'mon man...

Voltage spikes are not protected by anything.

You can easily cook modules.

Step one. Car off, disconnect negative terminal. Go through all earth points and clean them. Even slight corrosion causes problems/gremlins. There are quite a few earth points in the engine bay.

Get the battery load tested. You won’t do that with a multimeter. Have the charge circuit tested. You can buy a gadget that does that for around $50. Topdon make a good one.

On VE, the ECM will ration available voltage to various systems in low available voltage conditions. However on VZ low voltage seems to cause all sorts of seemingly random problems.

Battery health may well be compromised and the alternator no longer at its best.

Clean, tight earths, new alternator and new battery and you’ll bet this all goes away.

 

[needinghelp]

Voltage spikes are not protected by anything.

You can easily cook modules.

Step one. Car off, disconnect negative terminal. Go through all earth points and clean them. Even slight corrosion causes problems/gremlins. There are quite a few earth points in the engine bay.

Get the battery load tested. You won’t do that with a multimeter. Have the charge circuit tested. You can buy a gadget that does that for around $50. Topdon make a good one.

On VE, the ECM will ration available voltage to various systems in low available voltage conditions. However on VZ low voltage seems to cause all sorts of seemingly random problems.

Battery health may well be compromised and the alternator no longer at its best.

Clean, tight earths, new alternator and new battery and you’ll bet this all goes away.

Alright cool. Today I'm going to find and clean the earth's, replace the alternator and have the battery tested (Replace if needed). I'll post here how things go.

 

[Fu Manchu]

There’s a major earth point behind the battery.
Clean with metho and scotchbrite at a push. COContact cleaner is better.
Clean the pins on it too.